Summary of First Adventure of "Paula Unplugged after 60"

This is my final blog of phase one “Paula Unplugged after 60”.

My adventure was everything I wanted it to be. I learned how to make organic bread and sell in the markets of Tuscany in freezing weather and enjoy beautiful hot springs at Podere Le Lapole. I met some of the nicest kids and was able to go four days without a shower at Hirpus in Campagna. I learned all about growing oranges, the beauty of Sicily and survived rats over my bed at La Casa della Acque. I learned how to cook traditional Abruzzo food, how to wait tables, and how to kill, pluck, and eat chickens at Tholos. Finally I learned how to make cheese, herd sheep, and what real farming is like at La Porta dei Parchi.

I would call this a well rounded adventure of a lifetime. I hope to be back in October when I travel on my next adventure. Wwoofing (World Wide Organization of Organic farming) is a wonderful way to travel and learn about the people, their lifestyle, and organic farming. I am not certain as to where I will be going. I still want to pick olives and grapes in the northern part of Italy, I would love to work in Brazil, and I have never seen the countryside of New Zealand. A lot of options and I have the summer to decide.

Anyone up for an adventure? Let me know. I hope you all follow my next adventure.

Ciao for Now

Last Day in Italy

It was a full day of sightseeing. The traditional Sistine Chapel, St. Peters, and, of course, shopping. I won’t bore you with the traditional stuff. The only comment that I will make is that I definitely have my 10,000 steps for the day.

I was very melancholy all day knowing that tomorrow is my last day in Italy. Although it has only been three months, it was such a change of life style that it will take some getting used to being back. Also, in Italy I could ignore all the day to day issues and responsibilities and just enjoy the moment. I want to make sure I do not get caught up in the rat race when I get home.

As for my hair, I think it is only appropriate that I give you a final verdict. My hair has never looked as healthy as it does now. The non-permanent color does everything it needs to do without damaging my hair. For those that need to dye their hair every two weeks or so, my advice is to go with non-permanent. It takes about three weeks for it to wash out and you have to dye your hair again anyway. Why damage your hair and pay all that money????

Ciao for now

Goodbye to La Porta dei Parchi

Last night was a farewell pizza party at the farm. The Swedish Wwoofers are also leaving today. It started off to be an 8:30pm dinner, which turned out to be a 10:30pm dinner. This is very normal in Italy. It was so nice of them to organize the dinner, but by the time dinner was over I was falling asleep. Us old people can’t stay up until midnight two nights in a row (ok, I will only speak for myself).

It was with mixed feelings that I was leaving La Porta dei Parchi. I had stayed three weeks at the other farms (except the farm from hell) and I felt I was ready to go, but I was only at this farm one week and was leaving early because of my tooth. I really would have liked to stay and learn more about making cheese, Abruzzo cooking, starting a vegetable garden, and Abruzzo culture.

The people at the farm were wonderful: Nunzio, the owner, is one of the most humble, kind, and intelligent men I have met during my stay in Italy; Pasqualino was a riot and really a great guy, who is genuinely concerned about people; All the office staff goes out of their way to help; the people from Romania that make the cheese and tend the sheep are so kind and patient and are willing to share all their knowledge; and finally Gesepe, the gardener, was so terrific and really wanted to help you in any way possible.

I also would have liked to spend more time in Pratola Peligna to get to know my relatives and do more hiking in the National Forests in Abruzzo. I feel that the region of Abruzzo is more the traditional Italy, rather than Tuscany and the big cities (other than Naples). Spending time in all the Abruzzo hillside villages (they are scattered across every mountain) is really getting to know what Italy was like years ago.

There is a strong sense of community among the people of Abruzzo and especially the Agricultural / Farming community. They all try and help each other to sell their products; they truly want everyone to be successful because they are proud of their region.

One common thing that I did observe in most of the farms is how hard it is to be a farmer. Talking with Nunzio and Paula (Tholos) and some of the other farmers in Abruzzo I met, they want to cut back the time they have to spend on the farm. Work never really ends and the monetary rewards are very little. Nunzio is particularly concerned that the young people are not interested in farming and would rather live in the cities. Who will carry on the traditions of Abruzzo!!

On a not so positive note: the farm was a real working farm. The animals, including the dogs, donkey, horses, pigs, were treated like animals. I won’t go into detail but as an example, the dogs were really in bad shape because they were totally outside and only ate table scraps (the puppies were really looking bad by the time I left with all the rain). The donkeys and horses were in a very small and not so clean stall (except for Eric’s great work in the donkey stall). It was difficult to watch but I understood that this was the way it was in a real working farm. I don’t want to make out that they were mistreated; it is just a different view on animals in general. Being an animal lover it is hard to accept.

In summary, I really felt I had a long list of things that I still wanted to do before I departed but I am looking forward to seeing my family and friends and my dog Teca. I am already planning my next trip back.

Nunzio picked us up early today and took us to town to catch our bus. He gave us a full bag of cheese to take back to America. Again, no one asked him to do this, he just showed up.

We spent most of the day on the bus and arrived into rain in Rome. That didn’t stop us from walking from one end to the other. I actually enjoy the rain because most tourists stay inside. After being in Abruzzo for three weeks, Rome is such a stark contrast with all types of people from around the world. Abruzzo is not a real tourist area, so you can go for weeks and never meet another American or person from a country outside of Italy.

Tomorrow I become a traditional tourist; no work, just play.

Ciao for now

Follow the Flock

Today I went with the sheep up the hillside of the Abruzzo Mountains to graze. Geovani takes them up every day with around 12 dogs. The initial climb up the slippery mountain was a little difficult, but Geovani quickly went back and got two walking sticks for us. I was a little worried when he left us with the sheep. They kept climbing up the hill.

The sheep actually lead the way. They dawdle, drift off, and eat anything that looks green. I am not quite sure what the dogs do; I think they are to keep Geovani company. There are actually two types of dogs: the Abruzzo dogs are for keeping the wolves away, since they look like the sheep (they are all white and look similar to a golden retriever, but larger and white). The other dogs are an eclectic mix that are suppose to herd the sheep. It was so funny when the sheep kept going in places that Geovani did not want. He would be yelling at them and saying in Italian "where are you going". Other times the sheep started grazing rather than continue up the mountain and Geovani would yell at them again. The dogs were just staring at Geovani and didn't even look at the sheep.

The walk is very peaceful and casual. This is not meant to be a super fast hike. It gives you time to really enjoy the landscape and take in all the sounds and smells or the Abruzzo mountains. As you move up the mountain, the landscape continues to change from meadows to large lava rocks. You could hear an owl (or so we think but not sure) in the distance. Apparently many times you see eagles and other animals.

Geovani tried to explain some of the flowers and fruit trees. We would have major discussions and sometimes I could make out a little of what he said and other times NOTHING. I felt bad so I made him think I knew what he was saying. I am sure that May and June are breathtaking with all the flowers and fruit trees in bloom. Sometimes we got into lengthly discussions and realized that the sheep were gone and Geovani raced off to find them by following the sound of the bells (a collar on some of the sheep).

Today was very overcast and we could not see the villages down below. Most days it is clear and you can get a fantastic view. Geovani was prepared with an umbrella; of course, I wasn't.

Geovani is a very nice man from Romania. He comes to the farm for 10 months in order to make money to support his wife and two children. I am sure it must be difficult being away from home so long; apparently he has no choice.

As we are climbing the mountain we came across a fountain, where the animals drink. It is just amazing to think of how they built something like this. I was sad when I had to head down the mountain early to help in the kitchen. Later I was glad I did when the rain actually started coming down. Unfortunantely I forgot my camera (not bright, so I do not have any pictures of this spectacular day.

It was a wonderful way to spend the last day at La Porta dei Parchi. Tomorrow is off to Rome for a couple days.

Ciao for now

Family in Pratola Peligna

Besides a missing tooth, today was a day that I will never forget. My mother had sent me phone numbers of relatives in Pratola Peligna and I decided to attempt a call. It is very difficult to talk on the phone to someone when you do not speak Italian. I had a backup, since Samantha was in the office and she would be able to help (although Samantha does not speak English, so I still had the issue of talking to her).

Luck was with me because I reached the granddaughter of my mother’s cousin, Marie Luisa. Her boyfriend was there and he speaks English. I told them that I would be taking a bus in the afternoon to visit. Before departing I had to help in the kitchen with over 50 school kids and their parents for lunch. I mentioned that La Porta dei Parchi is a teaching farm also and there are school children visiting regularly. You can imagine the noise with 50 very excited kids running all over the farm.

I arrived at 3:30 in Pratola Peligna and went to the book store that the cousin owned. It was a very interesting book store with magazines, newspapers, and books. In America it would be considered more of a newspaper / magazine stand. The store was on the same piazza where my grandmother was born. We met Marie Luisa and Franca Bianchi and Marie Luisa’s boyfriend Nello. They were so warm and friendly and excited to meet me. They took me to their home to meet their mother/grandmother and Franca’s sister. We spent some time talking (Nello was the interpreter). It was so wonderful to get to know them and to see how they live.

We went back to their store and they gave me a beautiful book of the area and a lot of confetti (candy that is made in Abruzzo). One of the gentlemen I met gave me a gallon jug of wine he makes on his farm. Not sure what I am going to do with a gallon of wine. I also met a few more relatives. We did some sight seeing to a town at the very top of the mountain, where they still do their wash in the community fountains (picture on the right). It was beautiful.

Afterwards we went on a tour of nearby towns and to see Nello’s swim park, which was beautiful. We had fabulous pizza at his restaurant. The pizza was better than the pizza in Napoli (white pizza with potato and ham, red sauce pizza with artichoke and ??, and finally a mushroom pizza (my favorite). We also had an appetizer plate filled with wonderful cheese and meats. It would have been rude not to eat everything, so you can imagine how full I was.

They were so nice to drive me back to Anversa. At Anversa I went to a wild boar party. Of course by the time I arrived, the party was in full swing and many people were feeling the vino. The man having the party kept giving me food and wine and dessert, while everyone laughed. I couldn’t fit another thing in my body; again it is really hard to refuse.

It was difficult NOT to smile all day with my missing tooth. It was good to get back and to bed with my very full stomach.


Now the decision on the tooth!! I decided to return to California a week early to make sure I can get my tooth fixed. I hate to cut the trip, but I feel very self conscious with the missing tooth. I am also concerned on any long term impact, if I do not take care of it quickly. I will be leaving La Porta dei Parchi on Monday for Rome and return to California on Wednesday. I hope to walk with the sheep tomorrow,if there is no rain.

Ciao for now

A Rough Day

Today was a rough day. It started out with rain, so I was hoping to be able to stay in bed and read (I am trying to get over my cold). Unfortunately they found me and off to the olive groves to gather branches. Although it was overcast, it was still beautiful and I was glad that I went. Some of the trees in Italy are so beautiful and the flowers are unusual. You see wild flowers, including tulips, iris, etc. growing wild in the hillside. The picture is of one beautiful tree, but there are many like this.

I spent some time gathering wild asparagus. There are asparagus plants all over Italy. Afterwards I took a two hour nap.

Now the bad news……….In the afternoon I was helping to prepare for a meeting of the agricultural society. Pasqualino gave me a piece of bread to taste; it was hard white bread. My tooth fell out!!!!!! It is my eye tooth that I had hurt many years ago and had a root canal. Now what do I do? It is definitely in the front of my mouth. I have to determine whether to go for two weeks with a missing tooth or shorten my trip. I guess I should sleep on it. I definitely had not planned on shortening my trip; in fact, I was considering expanding it. I will let you know my decision tomorrow.

Ciao for now

Back to the Olive Trees

I knew it was too good to be true. Gesepe said he would be taking me to a beautiful place today and to meet him at 8:30am. Little did I know that it was back to the olive gardens and picking up the tree trimmings!! It was a beautiful place and the hillside was overlooking Anversa. I spent over four hours picking up and bundling tree clippings. I am really getting good at using sharp tools.

After leaving for lunch, I had to take a 2 hour nap because of my cold. I didn’t even have a chance to say hello to the puppies or the donkey. I have been successful at NOT getting sick the whole trip, but everyone was sick here, so no luck.

It was very cold in the afternoon and we made a fire in our fireplace in the apartment. The farm was deserted because there was a going away party in Anversa. I was given the task of watching the kitchen until they return; apparently there are guests for dinner tonight. Liz made a dessert for the party and I was very happy when Nunzio came in and took a piece and gave me some. I can blame the missing cake on him.

We decided to go to town for dinner instead of eating on the farm. It is about a 10 minute walk, but steep downhill (which means up hill on the way back). We have a flashlight so I am not too worried. The restaurant won’t open until 8pm; I am really getting use to eating lunch at 1:30pm and dinner at 8:30pm. I will have to adjust when I return to the states.

It is hard to believe that there is only two weeks left before returning to the states. I am trying to prioritize everything I want to do (or buy) before my departure. Where did three months go!

Tomorrow we are walking up the hill with the sheep caretaker. We will be leaving at 10am. It will be a long hard day. If the sheep can do it, so can I.

Ciao for now

Learning Gardening

Today was a productive day. I started out working in the cheese department and Eric was with Gesepe in the vegetable garden. Within minutes they swapped us and Eric was supposedly in the cheese department. He ended up cleaning out the donkey stall (wow is it great to have someone with me to do the tasks I don’t want to do). He had to clean about 10 inches of donkey …………….

I helped Gesepe with planting seeds for all different types of vegetables. My goal is to learn from him because he always has a fantastic garden. He uses the donkey …… that has been sitting for over a year as the fertilizer for the seeds.

I was surprised that he kept the pots with the seeds inside. Perhaps it is because of the cold weather; although today was a beautiful sunny day. He had over 30 different types of vegetables. I am anxious to see the actual garden area.
Tomorrow I am meeting him at 8:30am to go to help plant. I wish that I could be here in August to see all the vegetables ready to harvest. The farm is totally biological.

A couple interesting facts about the farm:
1. The pigs that I thought were husband/wife/baby are actually two big females and the small male pig (not a baby) was purchased to try and have baby pigs. Fat chance of this little pig mating with these big pigs. Nunzio just shakes his head when we talk about it.
2. Nunzio's cheese was recently purchased in Chicago for the White House (yes the president's home). He had the cheese while he was in L'Acquila and loved it. As I mentioned, Nunzio is famous for his Ricotta and Pecorino cheese.
I spent some time today watching them make the cheese. I am hoping to have an opportunity to work with them again, because the process is so interesting. There are different types of Ricotta, including smoked Ricotta cheese.

The afternoon was slow and I took a walk to Anversa. It is a very small village and not much to see. I did get a great dessert (which was actually my purpose of the walk). Although it is only 2 km away, it is a pretty steep hill, so I was able to wear off the desert and get my 10,000 steps in for the day.

Dinner was with all the Wwoofers, Nunzio, the guests, and Gesepe. So we had 2 Canadians, 2 Wwoofers from Sweden, 4 Americans, and 3 Italians. It was great to be in such a warm, friendly place. Malcolm cooked wonderful pasta with a pomodora sauce that had bacon in it. A combination of Italian and English was spoken. I am getting a little better in my Italian.

Everyone has been sick so I am trying to not get sick again, but it is not looking good. I would not want to miss walking with the sheep on Friday because of a cold.

Ciao for now

Kitchen Duty

I woke up early to see the mountains at dawn. It was breathtaking. It is still very cold and there is a mist in the air that makes the mountains even more beautiful.

I went to see all the animals and spent a few moments with the donkey. I found out that the reason the donkey is in a cage is because he bit another donkey and a horse. He seems to really like me, but I have my guard up.

I spent all day in the kitchen either cooking or cleaning. Liz and Malcolm, yes the Wwoofers from farm 3, are arriving and I wanted the kitchen to be clean for them. It really needed a good cleaning and it took all day. Liz and Malcolm worked at this farm for 10 months as the cooks and are back for a couple weeks before they return to the states.

The meals today were pasta and lamb and soup (and vino of course)…. Remember that there are over 1500 lambs on the farm, so we will be eating lamb every day. At least they did not serve any lamb heads. Malcolm said they are delicious; I am not going to try one to find out.

There were guests at the farm and I used my newly acquired serving skills to wait on the guests. I really think I can use more practice. One couple was English speaking from Montreal. I really enjoy the fact that we eat with the guests, rather than being treated as a servant. It is really a nice farm.

We had lunch with the man who is in charge of the vegetable garden and let him know that I want to work in the garden with him. He is in the process of planting seeds. My goal is to spend tomorrow outside (out of the kitchen). I would love to have a garden in Montana.

I did have time to take a break and play with the puppies. Puppies seem to follow me from farm to farm. One is especially attached to me and wants to be held all the time. Definitely not taking one home; they really shed.

I found out that we can take a walk on the sheep trail. It is supposed to be a fantastic walk. That will be on my day off. The National Forests are really something to see. The variety of trees and flora is very different from America.

All and all the first day was really a good day. I am really looking forward to spending more time to learn what it is like to live on a working farm.

Ciao for now

La Porta dei Parchi

I woke up today to snow in Scanno. All the trees and rooftops had a mist of snow and it was still snowing. Although it limited sightseeing, the overall view was breathtaking. I did a tour around the village of Scanno and, of course, purchased a few things for my empty suitcase.

After lunch I headed for La Porta dei Parchi, Farm 5. Nunzo, the owner, is a world class cheese maker. He is known for his Ricotta and Pecorino cheese. The farm is in Anversa, which is in the heart of Abruzzo. The town is very picturesque embedded in the mountains. I still believe that Abruzzo is the most beautiful of all the regions in Italy.

After arriving and having a lunch (did not really know what I was eating and that is probably better not knowing), I did a tour of the farm and saw the donkeys, pigs, sheep, horses, cow, and Abruzzo dogs.

The donkey wanted attention (you can definitely tell when a donkey wants something) and I had to pet him/her. I really feel that donkeys have great personalities.

I met all the people in the office. Some speak English so it was easy to communicate. Everyone is so nice. I am really looking forward to my time in Anversa. The hillsides around the Agriturisimo / farm are beautiful. Anversa is even prettier than Scanno.

I was put to work cleaning cheese in the afternoon. Once the cheese has aged, you scrub all the mold off the cheese. Although it seems easy, you have to be careful not to break the seal. Tomorrow I hope to see how they actually make the cheese.

Afterwards, I had time to unpack. I am staying in an apartment with a fireplace, sitting room, and a bathroom; no going out in the wilderness for a bathroom. Definitely not a five star, but compared to most of my rooms I feel like it is.

In the evening I helped cook in the restaurant. My first task was to bread the lamb heads including the eyes (I immediately offered Eric’s services). I told Pasqual, the cook, that I would not be eating the heads. This is definitely a different environment from farm 4; I really needed a diet anyway.

The menu was cannelloni, lamb’s head, lamb with eggs and wine, salad, and a dessert of Ricotta with honey and nuts. I bet you already guessed what I ate: the cannelloni and dessert with lots of wine. Liz and Malcolm, the cooks from Sicily, arrive on Wednesday. I hope to be able to start eating again.

The dinner guests were really nice and we actually joined them for dinner. The woman was from Pratola Peligna and recently inherited a house there. We talked about our families and how to find out more information. She currently lives in Lucca.

Tomorrow I hope to take pictures so everyone can see what a spectacular farm this is.

Ciao for now

Scanno

Today was a very rainy day. I spent the morning in Sulmona walking in the rain and caught the train to Scanno in the afternoon. The trip to Scanno was breathtaking. The view was amazing with the wispy trees and the snowcapped mountains. The bus had to beep its horn coming around the bend because of the narrow road. Scanno is a very small, picturesque hilltop town.

When I arrived I had to find a hotel on a Sunday. This is not an easy task. After knocking for over 10 minutes, I determined that the first hotel was closed; apparently their daughter was having a baby (I found this out at the local bar). The bar told me that the Garden Hotel was the best in Scanno (this was way down the hill).

So in the rain I walked down the hill to find the Garden Hotel totally vacant. Up the hill again to where I started. After over 1 1/2 hours I decided to stay at the hotel right on the square (I know you are asking yourself why I didn’t stay there in the beginning??? My husband asked me the same thing).

The plan is to spend tomorrow morning seeing Scanno (I hope the rain stops) and to be at Farm 5 by 3pm. I am very excited about the next and last farm.

Ciao for now

Sulmona

We made it in time for the market in Sulmona today (those that know me know that there was no way I would miss this market). Sulmona is a small, historical village and only minutes away from Pratola Peligna. It is very beautiful and one of the tourist towns in Abruzzo.

At the market I was able to buy three kitchen products on the list: an espresso maker and two strainers (not sure if that is what you would call them) one for cooking pasta and the other for shaking flour off the pasta before cooking. I am sure that I could have purchased all in California, but what is the fun in that!

After the market most of the day was walking the streets with all the people. It is Saturday and all the locals are out in the street strolling around. It is their way of meeting their friends after a long work week. It reminds me of my high school days when we use to drive up and down State Street. Not sure these people are looking for boys like we were.

Tonight we went to a musical. We really didn’t know what we were going to, but it seemed like fun. It turned out to be an amateur singing contest. A few of the people were very good, some not. The theater was really cool with all the people hanging over the balconies or alcoves (not sure what you call them); there are three tiers of alcoves on the sides.

Tomorrow we set out for Scanno, another beautiful village in Abruzzo, and Monday back to work at Farm 5 in Aversa.

Ciao for Now

Rome To Pick Up Eric

Today was a travel day to pick up Eric in Rome. The Hotel Morano owner, a very nice woman whose family owned the hotel for generations, took me to the bus stop. This was definitely beyond the call of duty. She even gave me a 5 euro discount on the room and some food for the trip. She was such a wonderful lady, just like all the people in Pratola Peligna.

I was to meet Eric at the Tourist Information Center; that was the plan. As usual I did not follow my own plan and kept going to the platform where the train arrives. Eric had to wait for over a half hour. Oh well, he was so glad to see me that he did not get mad. I am happy to see my husband after so long; It is a nice change to be traveling with someone.

It was a quiet day in Rome, since Eric did not have any sleep for two nights. We returned to the hotel I stayed at two months ago (wow, I can’t believe it has been over two months since I arrived in Italy). Armando is so nice and we had a lot of fun negotiating the price. I am definitely spoiled with the single prices. He gave us a secluded room after my last stay of smoking and snoring in the room next to mine.

We had a great lunch with wine and Eric and I both took a nap. We are getting up early to return to Sulmona so I can shop at the Saturday market. Remember that Eric has a whole suitcase for my extravagance. I am buying flour, an espresso maker, a copper pot, bottles of tomato sauce, etc, etc, etc,. You just cannot get the same ingredients in the U.S.

I am trying to plan how I can fit in all I want to do in the remaining three weeks. There is so much more to accomplish. I would definitely extend the stay, if it wasn’t for visiting my parents.

Ciao for now

Grandmother's Birth Home

Before I talk about my day today, I forgot to mention two things from yesterday (I must have been tired). The gentleman that took me to Pratola Peligna was very proud of the fact that his farm produced the Farro (type of flour) that Obama ate when he visited L’Aquila. The Agricultural community of Abruzzo is very proud of their products and they should be. He has won many awards for the products he produces. I also met the gentleman that produces the oil that Paula uses in her cooking. He also has won many awards; his olive oil is amazing. I have his phone number and hope to ship some back to California.

Second, I was able to download most of the pictures to Picasso web site :

http://picasaweb.google.com/pmilano09/Farm4#

I know there are a lot of pictures but I am emotionally attached. Just breeze through the ones you don’t want to see. There are a lot of videos also.

Today was a very relaxing day; I even took a nap. I spent the day researching my family and found my grandmothers birth certificate and all the information on her parents. I even took a picture of the house she was born in. As I expected, there are many Pace and Bianchi’s in Pratola Peligna so it is useless to find my relatives.

I have fallen in love with Pratola Peligna and the people. Everyone is so nice to me and I have really enjoyed the conversations. I have a new goal of dual citizenship; I have added a home in Pratola Peligna to my bucket list. I have been welcomed with open arms from my Albergo to the community center, where I researched my grandmother.

I have had gelato both days and it is delicious. My stomach has definitely expanded because I was able to finish a large dish of pasta (prima course) and a large pork chop and eggplant (secondo course) for dinner. Don’t let me forget the half bottle of wine. Not sure what I will do when I return to reality.

Now that Mirta (the other wwoofer) has left, I find myself starting to talk more Italian. It is interesting how you adapt to being independent over night. It really is good being immersed in the language with no one to help you.

The hotel (a very nice woman that owns it) is taking me to the bus stop tomorrow to travel to Rome. I will be picking up my husband, Eric, to join me at my last farm. I think it is important that he understand how wonderful Wwoofing is.

I hope that this adventure will continue for a long time in other countries or in Italy. We will have three days before we have to be in Aversa for our last farm. Eric doesn’t know that most of the time is trying to buy all the products that were used in cooking before I leave. I had Eric bring a large empty suitcase. I plan on spending all the money I saved by working on farms.

Ciao for now

Pratola Peligna

It was a sad farewell to Gabrielle, Paula, Marideia, Zella, and Dalia. I woke up early to feed the animals for the last time today. This morning Fantino definitely had his way with Nina. I anticipate a new donkey in 12 months. I can’t imagine that she is not pregnant after watching how the baby was consummated. I won’t go into details, but I will say that Nina seemed to enjoy it after putting up such a fuss.

The Organization for the Abruzzo Agriturisimo’s met at Tholos today. Mirta and I prepared the restaurant with Maridela and Zella. Paula had pasta (as usual) and wonderful meatballs made without meat (I am sure they are not called meatballs but looked the same). They were made with bread, eggs, parsley, and parmesan cheese. They were delicious.

Paula gave me three different kinds of flour that are made at Tholos. I am gathering baggage as I go. I also have a list of items that are a must buy before I leave in three weeks. Saying goodbye to everyone was hard. Tholos was really an adventure. To summarize the highlights:

1. I gained at least 5 lbs. (I am hoping only 5lbs) from eating all the wonderful food.
2. I wrote down as many recipes as possible but many of the ingredients will be hard to get in the U.S. ( I am already making excuses as to why my cooking didn’t improve)
3. Mirta and I had many laughs about no bathroom at night, the different orders from different family members, Nina and Fantino, the long night with the 10 kids in our house, etc…..
4. I learned how to be a waitress
5. I realized that farm life is a lot of work but very rewarding
6. I gained a new appreciation for Abruzzo and the people of Abruzzo and am proud to have this region as part of my heritage

One of the men from the meeting drove me and Mirta to Pratola Peligna, where my grandparents were raised. The drive was breathtaking with the green country side and the snow capped mountains. Abruzzo is definitely the prettiest of all the areas I have visited.

Pratola Peligna is a wonderful village imbedded in the hillside. Although it seems to be a good size village, there is only one hotel and restaurant; there are a lot of bars. After walking around this evening, I decided to stay for two nights. It will be a good place to relax and get set for my next adventure. I hope that I can find some long lost family members, although it is unlikely.

It is really hard to believe that I only have three weeks left before I return home. I am starting to pick up the language; although people that talk to me still cannot understand what I say.

Ciao for Now

Final Days at Tholos

Last night was a night from hell. The ten young Italians that were in our house were up past 3:30am in the morning. I almost went out to see if the girl (it was 9 guys and 1 girl) was all right because she kept screaming. We were so tired the whole day. The good thing is that Paula and Gabrielle did not ask us to do anything; they realized that we were very tired.

The only major event of the day is Fantino (the donkey; I think I have been calling him Farantino and it should be Fantino because I was corrected today). Maradia and I were trying to untie him because he was making so much noise. The problem was that Nina was in sight and he really wanted her. We put Nina in her pen and tried to get Fantino in a better spot in the yard, but he was pulling us so fast we could not stop him with the rope. Again you had to be there to enjoy the comedy. I really feel sorry for him.

I was finally able to take a shower after three days. It was very quiet once the kids left and I had time to play with the puppies and relax. Tomorrow we have all the agriturisimo organization coming for a meeting and in the afternoon I will be leaving for Pratola Peligna, where my grandmother and grandfather are from. I have 4 days before I arrive at my next and final farm at Anversa.

Paula gave us a couple books on traditional Abruzzo recipes. My mom will be very excited when I go home and cook for her. It will be difficult to say goodbye to the family. They are so nice and I have really enjoyed my time at Tholos.
Tonight we have the house to ourselves and even a bathroom. I will sleep soundly.

Ciao for Now

So Many Funny Stories

First off I have something that is rather upsetting to tell you. Yesterday I talked about Franco, the Italian man who is helping wash the dishes for the restaurant. Franco is a small, thin man who drinks wine all day and is hunched over with balding hair. He is really hysterical and a nice older man. The very upsetting news is that I found out that Franco is two years younger than me. NOW I really feel old.

Mirta (the other wwoofer) and I were laughing so hard we were crying last night reminiscing about our day and all the things that happened. We were especially laughing about how we were going to get to the bathroom during the night. Mirta got the key to the restaurant, so we were prepared. At 1:30am I attempted to use the key. I tried and tried, but the door would not open. I ended up using the great outdoors. I really am concerned about tonight, since it is raining.

Nights on the farm are very noisy. As one of the campers staying on the property put it: “it is like being in a zoo”. Between Farantino the donkey, the rooster, and the dogs, you have noise all night. Poor Farantino is still hoping Nina will come around and like him. Nina is hiding in the barn and won’t come out, although every once in a while she looks out. I think she is teasing Farantino.

Tonight we have a group of 10 young kids in our apartment. It is so noisy. We are hoping they will burn out by midnight. I have not had a shower for two days because we have no bathroom. We were promised that tomorrow we would be back to normal.

Today there were more people than yesterday for lunch; I didn’t think it was possible. We worked nonstop from 8am to 4pm waiting on tables. I really enjoyed talking with the people (if you call using sign language talking). They really enjoyed trying to speak English. Mirta and I are looking for our tips.

The meals are fantastic with 3-5 appetizers, a first course that has two types of pasta, a second course with two types of meat, and a dessert. They only charge 30 Euros for the meal. Not sure how they make any money to run the farm. They all work so very hard, especially the daughters. The daughters have to spend their weekends working on the farm and go to the university during the week. Not a great way to spend all your time while you are in your 20’s. They have a good attitude and don’t seem to mind that they have to come and help.

The puppies are getting so cute. The littlest one is growling; we were laughing at it. Once again it will be hard to leave on Wednesday.

I know I promised to talk about the food today, but had a lot to say. I will put it in tomorrow’s blog.

Ciao for now

Happy Easter

Today was a very long and wonderful day. At first, when I saw all of the families and the children, I had a wave of homesickness. It soon passed with all the work to be done. It started with over 40 people for lunch at 12:30pm and ended at 10pm. The families were very large with at least three generations. The people really love food and a lot of wine. Easter is a very special holiday. Apparently it is as important as Christmas.

It was very hectic in the kitchen and we had the typical Italian tempers that flared up and died down quickly. The menu was 8 different appetizers, 3 different pastas, 2 different meats with potatoes, and dessert. You can see how it was a busy day to make sure all the courses were served. Tomorrow I will give you detail on the food.

Franco the dishwasher is a riot. He is a very small, thin Italian man with no teeth. He gets through the day by drinking wine. He is so quick at everything he does; we just wait for the next disaster. He keeps telling me to sit down and to come to work at 9am instead of 8am. You really have to see him to appreciate how funny he is. Apparently he helped Paula and Gabrielle build the restaurant. Not sure I would trust him as a precise builder, but what do I know about building. He ignores the daughters when they tell him what to do. The girls just roll their eyes.

Serving in a restaurant is a very new experience for me. I had a couple spills but for the most part I managed. I met a few people and they were so nice. The one table kept asking this one man to ask me a question. He is studying English. So he finally asked me the question and it was: How old are you? I pretended he didn’t ask the question correctly.

Although I am exhausted, it was definitely an experience to remember. Now I am in my room with a group of 17 Italians staying in the same house. They are very loud and I am not sure how I will get any sleep. We have no bathroom and have to go all the way to the restaurant to use the facilities. Did I say that I was on VACATION???

Ciao for now

A Busy Day in the Kitchen

The clock was ticking and everyone was getting a little tense in the kitchen today. There was a lot of fighting between the daughters and the mom. It was so much fun watching the interaction, although I could not tell what they were fighting about. They are a very close family, so the fighting blows over quickly.

The Pork that we rolled was cooking in the oven and it smelled fantastic. I learned how to make fresh cheese from goat milk. It is a very expensive cheese that only the rich can afford. Gabrielle milked the goats in the morning and Paula made the cheese during the day. It was outstanding.

The menu for tonight was two fresh cheeses that were made on the farm, and prosciutto for appetizer, pasta for prima course, pork and salad for the secondo course, and Easter cake for dessert. It was outstanding.

I have been working the tables as I mentioned and I learned how to hold three dishes at once. I am very proud of myself. It has been a riot working with the family. One person tells me to do something one way and another comes by and tells me to do it another way. I am laughing inside.

At one point I was told to watch one of the tables called Danielle. I thought they said the daughters name and went and stood by the daughter. She asked what I wanted and I said I didn’t know. I later realized I was supposed to be at one of the tables. Later that evening I was trying to tell them what I had done but, between the laughing and the language gap, they were just staring at me while I was laughing so hard I was crying. They think I am nuts.

Tonight we have no bathroom; we lost our bathroom to guests. If we have to use the bathroom, we have to walk down to the restaurant. It is not a smooth walk and we are using flashlights. I purposely did not drink much to hopefully make it through the night but at my age the chances are slim.

Tomorrow I can watch them make Ravioli and I am very excited to see how they make them compared to my mom.

Happy Easter everyone! Ciao for now

A Day off in Pescara

Today I decided I needed to take the day and relax and catch up with my family. Madera gave me a ride to Pescara, a beach town about 23km from Roccamorice. On the way she told me about the different towns and culture. She believes that Roccamorice is more closed minded and not social, where the neighboring town, which looks charming, is much nicer.

Once in Pescara I set out to accomplish a number of things. First and very important, I made an appointment for a manicure. After all the gardening and working in the yard my nails were so bad that I was hiding them in the evenings. I just could not get them clean.

Then I had to get my computer fixed. I panicked the night before when I could not get the computer to log into my user. I spent over an hour with Computer Discount (they did not speak English so it took most of the time to get them to understand what I needed). Finally he was able to get my computer back to normal. It was such a relief, since this is my only link outside of Tholos to family and friends.

I had a laundry list of things to buy, including a hair dryer. I have been air drying my hair and it is looking pretty bad. My hair is now longer than I can remember and it is hanging down from not styling it. The hair coloring is working but I am not sure I like the dark hair (without highlights). Wow, am I going to a hair dresser when I get back. I know you are tired of hearing about my hair.

I took a walk along the beach. Since it is still pretty cold for the beach, it was deserted. It looks like a wonderful beach town and I would love to see it in the summer. Other than shopping and beach, there is not much to do in Pescara.
I was then able to talk with all my children, parents, and husband. It was so nice to see my parents. My sister was visiting so they could actually see me. They have been so worried and, of course, want me to come home.

Last was the bus trip back. Everyone knows how I hate the bus system. I was actually very good and made it to the Pit Stop Bar. The walk home with a backpack was another story. I was lost… not sure how it happened, since I have been on this road before. After walking for 30 minutes up hill (yes Casey would be so proud of me), I stopped to ask for directions. Of course we were communicating in Italian. Zela drove by just in the nick of time. She was running an errand for bread.

I arrived in time to help serve dinner to the guests (15 people tonight). I have never waited tables. I enjoyed it. I still cannot carry more than two things. Paula gave me a disgusted (yes that look in Italian is the same) when I was using my body to hold it up rather than balance on my arm. Not sure they will let me tomorrow, since it will be a big crowd with all Italians. Tonight two of the tables spoke English. On group was from Chicago and the other from Toronto Canada.

Looking forward to eating all the food the next two days. I will be giving you a description of the menu, so stay tuned.

Ciao for now

Nina's Day

It was a difficult day for Nina (the donkey) today. Farentino came over to the farm to make love to Nina. For those that read my earlier email, you know that Farentino is not Nina’s type of man. She didn’t want anything to do with him. Sad but he had his way with her in the end. They will know in three months whether Nina is going to have a baby.

We spent most of the morning gardening again. My hands are raw and have blisters and thorns in them. I am really done with gardening. It is not easy with the soil of Abruzzo, which is like clay. The farm has all kinds of plants with thorns and pickers. We have been digging them out. After this morning I decided to take tomorrow as my day off. mu body is so tired and I need a break; yes, I am whining.

In the afternoon we made meatballs. Paula’s meatballs are very different from mine. She uses 4X the amount of bread, parmesan, and eggs. She also uses olive oil, parsley, garlic, and ground beef like I do. It is just the proportion of all the ingredients that is very different.

Dinner consisted of minestrone soup and meatballs and salad and bread and wine and panna cadda desert. I don’t think I have ever eaten so much food in my life. It was definitely the best minestrone soup I have had. I made the panna cadda so I thought that was good also.

We have guests staying at the Agriturisimo from Toronto, Canada. It is great talking with people in English, since I mostly just listen to other people’s conversations in Italian. The people start arriving on Saturday through Tuesday for the Easter Holiday.

I am looking forward to talking with my family tomorrow, when I am in Pescara.

Ciao for now

Easter Countdown

I really am getting use to the farm and enjoying the family. It is so interesting to watch how they communicate. The girls are always giving me rolling eyes when their father says something. It is the same all over the world. They keep telling me and Mirta (the other Wwoofer from Holland) that Paula seems nice but just don’t do anything wrong. I really get a kick out of it.

Everyone is a little tense with so many people arriving for Easter. It is really a lot of work to run the farm, the restaurant, and the hotel. Paula is really tired and would love to get out of the restaurant business. Today a whole pig was delivered and Gabrielle had to debone it. They then put parsley, bay leaves, pepperincino, pistachios, parmesan cheese, and rosemary inside and rolled it. I just can’t wait to eat it on Easter.

I have really loved learning new recipes and watching Paula cook. I definitely have not enjoyed the yard work. Today Gabrielle used an electric weeder and we had to use a rake in front of him. I finally told him I was going for glasses, when the stone hit me in the face. It is really hard work and the vines are either roses or some type of thorn bush. My hands hurt just to type this blog. I have blisters and cuts all over my arms and hands.

Guests arrive in the Agriturisimo tonight so we are limited to the back bedroom. When they have a full house we can’t use our bathroom. Not sure what we are going to do in the middle of the night when we have to go the bathroom. We are a little concerned.

The only drawback of this farm is the lack of a high speed internet. I have not been able to talk with my family and friends and I feel a little homesick. I didn't realize how important the phone conversations were to me. I am anxious to get to a internet point where I can have a conversation with everyone.

Ciao for now

A Cooking Day at Tholos

Last night we made a type of appetizer that was made with pasta, consisting of oil, wine, eggs, and a little flour. We made small circles our of the pasta and put a wonderful cheese mixed with egg inside and then made a small cup out of it with crisscrossed dough on top. It is hard to explain, but they tasted delicious.

This afternoon five of us made lasagna. We made 10 pans of lasagna to feed customers through the weekend. The lasagna is made with fresh pasta, sauce with a little meat, mozzarella, parmesan, and a mixture of peas, milk, etc. I do not have the recipe yet, but I promise to get it for all my cooking friends. It is so interesting how they make it. It is definitely an established technique because they were very specific on how to arrange everything. I am anxious to taste it this weekend.

I mentioned to you in an earlier blog that two baby goats were just born. One baby goat was not doing well. It would not eat, so we have been feeding it with a bottle. This morning we were so excited that it started sucking. It looks like the baby will survive. I named it Sweet Pea.

After lunch we went into the forest and picked dandelions to use in the salad. It brought back childhood memories, when my mom used to do the same thing. Now we just try and get rid of them in our lawn with weed killer. It is amazing how creative the Italian farms are in using their surroundings.

We took Nina (the donkey) to be with another donkey to mate. It was hysterical. The poor male donkey was willing and able and Nina was having nothing to do with it. Nina would run away and refuse to go back, even though Madera (the daughter) was pulling her. I felt so bad for the male donkey. We finally gave up and were laughing all the way home. Nina was walking very fast to get back home.

Well it has been a long day and hope this blog is more agreeable than my Killer Day yesterday.

Ciao for now.

A Killer Day

Before you read this I would like to put in a disclaimer. My husband believes that I am giving too much information in today's blog. I believe I need to be honest and open on all my activies. If you agree with my husband, stop now and do not read the blog. If you agree with me, enjoy my adventure!

I started the morning watching Gabrielle skin the goat that he had killed this morning. It wasn’t a site that I was looking forward to seeing. He even skins the head. I am not sure what he is going to do with the head. I hope it isn’t included in the dinner menu.

Gabrielle has been teasing me all week about killing the chickens. I kept saying that I do not want to see it. I guess I shouldn’t have said anything because I ended up holding three chickens while he killed them. In case you didn’t know chickens take a long time to die and they are very strong. Afterwards I skinned the chickens in preparation for Easter. It brought back childhood memories of when I was on my aunt and uncle’s farm.

I have decided that farm life is probably not in my future. I am enjoying this adventure, but I know that it is for a short time. There is no way I could raise animals and kill them. I would be too attached.

On a lighter note, this afternoon we took a walk in the forest. The snow capped mountains and the waterfalls are beautiful. All the flowers are starting to bloom. I am trying to take a day and go to St. Bartolomeo and the hot springs. Not sure if I will have time or transportation.

Ciao for Now

Today is Sunday and we have about 20 Italians from around Pescara that will be arriving for lunch and seven for dinner. I woke up early and decided to walk to town to see Roccamorice. There is not much to see. At least there was a bar where I could get a caffe. The walk was beautiful and very hilly. So I did get my 10000 steps in today.

When I returned I went with Dahlia to take care of the goats. I was the last one in the gate and thought I had closed it. We were in the goat house taking care of the babies and the other goats were outside. I was feeling uncomfortable that I had closed the door, so I went out to check. I bet you can guess what happened. Four of the goats were outside and the door was open. I was frantic trying to get these goats back into the pen. It was an experience to remember. I can’t believe I actually got them back in the pen. I sure get myself into trouble at these farms. Perhaps I am not meant to be a farmer.

Everyone was very busy preparing the food. I was a little disappointed that I did not prepare the food, but I got to sample everything and made sure to get the recipes. The menu was: rabbit pate, antipasta, pizza filled with broccoli and mozzarella, ricotta balls, polenta and hummus as the first course; fresh made pasta and ricotta crepe with saffron as the second; lamb or rabbit or beef for the third; fresh made cake and cookies as the desert. They were all made fresh by Maria and the family.

I was the dishwasher of the afternoon and we still have guests this evening. It is hard work washing all those dishes. Definitely was tired afterwards. I have a new appreciation for the dishwashers in restaurants.


Ciao for now

Great Recipes

It is a beautiful day in Abruzzo. This morning we did a lot of gardening to get ready for the guests, who arrive today. I can imagine how beautiful the farm is when all the plants begin to bloom.

While we were working, one of the goats had two babies. We saw them right after they were born and I took a video. It was so wonderful until the other Wwoofer reminded me that I will be eating a baby lamb this weekend. I love lamb, but it will make the meal less inviting (not that I will stop eating).

For lunch we had chicken cacciatore. Gabrielle killed the chicken in the morning so we could eat it at lunch. I am glad I did not know which chicken I was eating. You know how I love my chickens!!

I forgot to mention a comment that Dahlia, the daughter, said to me yesterday, when we were making pasta. She noted that I must not cook a lot because of the way I was standing away from the table. I tried not to take offense. There are so many lessons on this trip including humility.

A couple things about Abruzzo cooking: In American we eat our vegetables cooked just until tender. In Abruzzo they cook and cook and cook their vegetables until they are almost mushy. I feel that it takes away from the taste, but that is only because I am use to one way versus the other. The cheese in Abruzzo has a “wild” taste to it. I don’t really know how to describe it. For example, the Ricotta does not have the sweet taste like I am use to; you can tell it is from goat’s milk.

This afternoon we exchanged recipes. I lucked out on getting a fantastic ricotta recipe. It is a traditional pie from Naples. I learned how to make a beef recipe that was also delicious. I will definitely be cooking when I get back.
Ciao for now

Agriturisimo Tholos

Today was my first day at Tholos. The agriturisimo is run by Maria (really Paula) and Gabrielle and their three children. It is a beautiful farm with sheep, dogs (plus three puppies), fifteen chickens (minus 5 that Gabrielle is going to kill today), and a donkey. The farm is large with: six guest rooms, three dining rooms, a large patio, and swings / hammock. Go to the website at www.agriparktholos.it to see the farm, since I can not attach pictures.

One of the dining rooms is an old stone building where they used to house the sheep. It is so unique and romantic. They have a large table with candelabras for intimate dining. There are a number of balconies to enjoy the views of the forest and snow capped mountains. The farm is inside the Majella National Park with hiking trails right outside the door.

Today we were preparing the farm for Easter because Paula is expecting guests in the Agriturisimo plus a number of dining guests for both lunch and dinner during the Easter weekend. Easter is a big event in Abruzzo and all of Italy. It is celebrated throughout the weekend and on Monday.

Paula is known for her cooking and has won a number of awards, so many people travel all the way to Roccamorice, which is a stone city high up in the mountains, to eat at Tholos. The guests are all from Abruzzo region in Italy.

We spent the morning gardening around the patio after a long winter. It was one of the first really beautiful days they have had this year. Paula also taught us how to make a pasta called Orecchietti (means little ears) and she made a broccoli sauce. It was so easy to make but delicious. Of course we had a fennel salad and fried mozzarella for the second course. I love the way they cook in Italy. They are simple dishes (very little preparation) but beautiful to see and delicious.

After lunch we had a chance to relax. I am really focused on learning my Italian. It is so bad to not be able to understand. Gabrielle and Paula only speak Italian and the daughters translate for me. I feel I am getting better but very slowly.

Before dinner we are made crepes (called crespelle) for the guests tomorrow. It is another traditional dish. I am so excited to be learning more about the Italian cooking.

Ciao for now

An Interesting Travel Day

It was a sad farewell to Naples. I hope to return soon. The atmosphere is so energizing. I started out at 5am in the morning to catch the train to Sumona. It was a beautiful train ride, when I was awake. With the lack of sleep the night before and the movement of the train, it was hard to stay awake.

Rather than sit in Pescara until the 5pm bus, I decided to spend the afternoon in Sumona. It is a wonderful small city, so one day was enough to see the whole town. One thing I immediately noticed were how nice the people were dressed, especially the men. In Italy there are always a lot of men standing around chatting. In Abruzzo all the men had either suits or leather jackets, or very nice casual jackets on with nice casual corduroy pants. They also were much better looking than the men in Sicily (you know my impression of Sicilian men). I may be bias, since my heritage is Abruzzo.

I had a very nice lunch with good wine, which was a mistake. While waiting for the train, I did not hear that the binario changed for Pescara and I was getting on the wrong train. The conductors stopped me and said I should have been listening. I played dumb and said I couldn’t speak Italian. The bad thing about traveling alone is that you can never let your guard down (or drink too much).

Once I got to Pescara, I looked for the bus to Roccamorice. Did I tell you how much I hate the bus system in Italy? There is no clear indication as to which bus went to Roccamorice or where to stand to wait for the bus. I was finally told to take the bus going to Sumona, which stops in Roccamorice (wasn’t I just in Sumona??). After 1 ½ hours of driving back through cities that I just saw on my way to Pescara, a bunch of people got off the bus. The bus driver said I needed to get off the bus also and get on another bus (now I was really confused). Apparently there is a special bus that goes up to Roccamorice; again I was never told. I was told by Maria at Tholos to get off at the Pit Stop Bar. It was very dark and buses do not stop unless you ring the bell; I had no idea if I was in Roccamorice or where this bar was. I tried asking the driver to let me off at the bar and he acted like I was saying something foreign (it is called the Pit Stop Bar even in Italian). I finally found someone to help and after being in a bus for 2 ½ hours, I finally arrived at my destination. It has been a very long day.

So far the Tholos is beautiful and the people are fantastic. They have chickens, dogs with puppies, and a donkey. It feels like home already. Tomorrow I will give you a better description of the farm. For now I am going to bed and get some sleep.

Ciao for now

On the way to Farm 4

Today was a travel day and an evening in Napoli. I really enjoyed the seven hours on the train to Napoli. As I mentioned in an earlier blog, the train actually goes on the ferry. Part of the time you can sit on the deck. I really needed some quiet time, so I used my headset as a way to avoid conversation.

I finally had a chance to see my body in the light with a full length mirror. I am full of black bruises on my legs!! No wonder my body hurts. I also have cuts all over my hands and arms from picking the oranges. I will enjoy an inside job for the next couple weeks.

I spent most of my time in Napoli hunting down a shop called Limone. This is the shop where I found my “non permanent” hair color. I walked at a very fast pace for over two hours and never did find the store. Now Napoli streets are filled with people and cars, so I am sure I knocked a few people down. I did a double “Scouza” for a very old woman who was being helped by her granddaughter. I am really soooo bad.

Although it is really “bad” to be so addicted to hair color, in my search I found some very interesting areas of Napoli, where the shops are fantastic. The shopping here is better than Rome and Florence because they have the same clothes at a better price. Good thing I can not fit another thing in my suitcases.

For those truly concerned about my hair, I did find a store that sold the hair color and bought two boxes. I don’t want to be without again. I really feel so vain when I am writing this!!

Once again I am exhausted and need to be up by 4:30am to catch the 5:51 train to Sumona. I am really excited because I will be on the train for sunrise. The train ride is a tourist attraction in itself.

Ciao for now

Day 1 of my trip to Farm 4

I said my farewells to Casa Della Acque and set out on my three day trip to Abruzzo. My first stop is Catania, a wonderful city in Sicily, where I will spend the night. I leave early tomorrow for Naples, which is a 7 hour train/ferry ride. The following day I will take a beautiful train ride across Italy to Pescara, which is on the eastern coast of Italy. Pescara is about 13km from where farm 4, Tholos, is.

In Catania I finally had a nice grilled veal steak for lunch. Since I have been mostly eating beans and pasta, it was great to have meat again. I typically don’t eat a lot of meat, but I really miss the protein. I also had one of the most delicious pistachio and ricotta cannoli. AND I did not have to do any dishes!!!

I am still trying to recuperate from the hard work, so I took a long nap and am going to bed early.

Ciao for now!!

Farewell to Sicily

Tomorrow is my last day in Sicily. Although I have enjoyed my stay, I did not appreciate the Sicilian culture as much as I thought I would. I learned a lot about Sicilian life, food, organic farming, Tai Chi and my personal ability to work as a laborer in a commune environment at Casa Della Acque.

Although the people were very nice, I have found at Casa Della Acque that we are viewed as free labor. The lesson learned is how to overcome my pride and be a subservient laborer as part of the growth process. It is a very humbling experience and I was having some difficulty at the end. Since I am older than most Wwoofers by 30 plus years, perhaps my experience is different, but the younger Wwoofers I have met here felt the same way.

This is very hard work and I am really feeling my age lately with the heavy labor required to pick oranges and haul the crates of oranges. My body is very tired. I just do not have the energy of the younger people, but I did not want to get any special treatment, so I have been doing as much if not more than the other Wwoofers. This morning I could barely get out of bed and my knee is really starting to hurt. I definitely need a few days rest. It really sucks being older.

Living in a commune environment requires a clear understanding of each person’s responsibility. In Sicily nothing is that organized. It created tension between the Wwoofers and the people living at Casa Della Acque. I am trying not to judge the environment too harshly because I really enjoyed my stay and I felt that it was a real growth experience. Also, the commune was a combination of Sicilian men, Germans, a Belgium lady, a French lady, an Estonian man, and three Americans. Talk about a culture jigsaw puzzle.

Sicilian men, what can I say? One the one hand they are more arrogant than Italian men and they have major egos. Conquering women is an ego boost for them. I do not want to generalize, since my exposure has been very limited in Sicily, but that is what I experienced. I apologize in advance to all my wonderful male Sicilian friends back home.

It was a sad farewell as I passed the baton to another Wwoofer for Peter and Haide, the donkeys. The hardest part of leaving is the animals. It really makes me want to have a farm some day.

Tonight was a birthday party for Nela, who turned 30 years old. Ellen, the Belgium woman who lives here, and Alfonso were making pasta as a special treat for Nela. Since they had never made ravioli before, I was helping them. They filled some with beets and ricotta cheese and parmesan cheese; they were delicious. The others were filled with a wild flower called Borge with gorgonzola cheese and garlic. It was spectacular also. As a tradition in Sicily, our dinner started at 9:30pm. It was a long night.

I leave first thing tomorrow for a long two day trip to Abruzzo. I am so excited to be going to where my ancestors were. I feel that this is really the primary purpose of the trip. I will be cooking for the Easter Holiday, which is one of the major holidays in Italy.

Ciao for now.

Winding Down in Sicily

I am winding down at Farm 3 and am already looking forward to Farm 4 in Abruzzo. It will be hard to leave the puppies and Haide (no it is not a misspelling) and Peter, the donkeys. In preparation I cleaned the donkey house and they have fresh hay on the floor. It took three wheel barrels of donkey stuff (you know what). Apparently it makes great manure for the orange trees.

Before I talk about the day, I would like to spend a little more time on the food of Sicily. They have simple but extremely flavorful dishes. Last night there were two kinds of Risotto: mushroom and pumpkin. I know there was some type of meat in one. They had both chicken cutlets and cotoletta, which is a breaded beef dish. There was white lasagna, which was filled with different cheeses. There was a pastry with cabbage inside (outstanding). The most popular meat in Sicily is sausage. It is not the type of sausage we buy in the store. The Sicilian sausage is so much better. My salad with oranges, fennel, sweet onions and oregano was a hit (they ate a huge bowl). The above are just a few of my favorites. Deserts were plentiful: tiramisu, cannoli, wonderful cakes, etc…… I hope to be able to duplicate these dishes.

Nirav ended up with a woman and she spent the night. It was so funny when Nirav came down and was putting a tray together for breakfast in bed. We were teasing him. I met Paolo from the other farm last night. I didn’t realize that he was hitting on me until he showed up again today. I immediately went and pick oranges.

We had another lesson this morning on Tai Chi, even though everyone was up until past midnight. I am hoping to continue lessons when I return because it is a beautiful way to meditate and exercise at the same time. Alfonso is getting better at communicating but I am not getting any better at following his instruction. It is very hard to keep the stance as you go through the movements.

We picked oranges and sorted most of the day because the two other Wwoofers are leaving tomorrow. I am glad the day is winding down so I can get some sleep. The swallows ended up nesting in the room next to mine and they get up very early and make major noise. I am not sure what they are doing but they fly around and dive in front of my door. It must be some type of mating ritual.

I decided that I am really not cut out for communal living. I think it is too difficult with everyone’s personalities. The two Wwoofers leaving are very difficult and are always worried that they have to do more than the others; they are also very vocal with their views. Since this is my first time with other Wwoofers, I am not sure if it is just their bad attitude and, therefore, an isolated experience or it is a normal part of communal living. I hope that I will have a chance to find out at another farm.

Ciao for now.

The Swallows in Sicily

It has been quite a day. We started with Tai Chi at 7:30am. It was great but there is a little language malfunction between the teacher, who only speaks Italian, and the pupil, me. My Italian is not getting any better. We will be having a Tai Chi lesson every day, so hopefully I will get the hang of it by just watching.

We had to pick over 35 cartons of oranges. It took all morning with 6 of us picking. The orchard is very difficult to maneuver and I twisted my ankle. Typically I would not worry, but being in Italy I am more concerned with any physical impairment. I definitely do not want to shorten my trip with a broken ankle.

Liz had a big surprise when she was picking oranges. Apparently a rat had a nest in the tree she was picking and it jumped on her and was caught in her top. She was screaming and the rat finally got loose and ran away. I am definitely more cautious when selecting my tree to pick.

We were all exhausted and starving after the morning’s workout. We had pasta with anchovy sauce, which is something I would typically not eat. It was delicious (or was I just so hungry). Of course there is always the afternoon nap.

In the afternoon we had to get ready for the big party. I was responsible for the orange and fennel salad and setting up the room. The party was to raise money to save the river. Apparently there is a lot of pollution and dumping in the river. The committee is trying to work with the government to make it a wildlife preserve, especially to protect the birds.

It was really a great opportunity to meet Sicilians and eat a lot of great food. Everyone brought a dish. I finally tasted a Sicilian cannoli. It was one of the best I have had. All the food was delicious. I had an opportunity to meet some of the other Wwoofers from Paolo’s farm. They all played musical instruments and some sang, so they were the entertainment. We had to clean up and finally quit at midnight.

One other comment is that the swallows arrived in Sicily. Apparently I am in their room; they always go back to where they had their nest the previous year. I didn’t realize that they were in my room until the morning because they are sleeping after sunset. Around 6am I kept hearing all these bird noises. I thought they were pretty close, but how close!!! I was trying to sleep through it hoping they would go away. After about 30 minutes of all the noise I finally opened my eyes and found that they were actually flying around in my room. Wow, was I surprised. I couldn’t get to the door fast enough to let them out. I cannot open my door now; when I do I guard it because they are just waiting to get in.

Well it is midnight and I am ready for bed. Ciao for now

A Full Day in Sicily

This morning was a beautiful warm day. In the afternoon I even put on my skirt and a sleeveless top. In the morning Nela and I went to pick up some bread from the nearby farm. The woman makes bread similar to Viola with integral flour and sells it to individuals and distributors. She gave us a yeast starter and we used it to make bread in the afternoon. Mt Etna was beautiful from their farm house.

On our way back we were on the road with the prostitutes. They were young, black girls. Apparently they are banned from Paterno, so they stand on the side of the road and wait for someone to stop. They looked to be in their teens. It was very sad to see.

We also were stopped by all the sheep on the road. There were hundreds of them. They looked hilarious running. It is not unusual to see sheep or cattle being herded down the road to a new grazing area.

After returning from the farm, it was back to trimming olive trees. This is really hard work. It took most of the morning. The reward was lunch in the garden. We put the tables back in the garden area and had pasta with arugula and sundried tomatoes. Obviously there was wine and bread. I picked a lot of wild flowers for the tables. It was very beautiful and relaxing.

I took a nice nap on the lawn in the afternoon. I must have really slept because I woke up an hour later. My body is just not use to manual labor.

Tonight is a pizza party because Nela and Phillip leave for Germany tomorrow. They come in November and leave in March to be at the farm during the busy orange picking season. I am not sure how Nirav will get all the work done; there is a lot of work to maintain the farm. He will definitely need more Wwoofers, but it really is not the same as people who know the farm and are here for longer periods.

Time is going by quickly. I only have a few days left and I leave for Abruzzo. I can’t believe that I have been in Italy for a month and a half.

Ciao for now

Orange Mafia

I just found out that there is an Orange Mafia. We noticed that there were cars with a driver just sitting by the road. When we asked what they were doing, we found out that they were the Orange Mafia of Sicily.

Apparently each orange farmer must pay the mafia money to watch the oranges. Since oranges in Sicily have no real value, they are paying to not have the orange mafia steal their oranges. The Orange Mafia passes down from generation to generation (ie a father and son). They just sit in the car acting like there is really something to protect. I find it fascinating.

Another thing I found out is that my pictures of Paterno are really pictures of the cemetery of Paterno. It looks like a city. The monuments and headstones are huge. You can imagine that it must be very large for me to think it was the city of Paterno.

Today I learned how to trim olive trees. It is very interesting and very hard work. We were doing minor trimming because the trees were trimmed last year. You have to cut off all the bottom branches and any other branches that are going straight up rather than hanging downward. I elected to NOT get on the ladder (good decision). There wasn’t much to hold the ladder and you are not on flat ground. Joseph, the new Wwoofer, volunteered. We were all very tired after the day of trimming trees.

I decided to bake a pie (it was a way of getting out of trimming olive trees for an hour). All their measuring cups are in ml and I did not have a conversion. The oven is definitely old and I have no idea about the temperature. The pan is too large. It is Italy so you just have to go with the flow. It was fun anyway; everyone here loves to eat, so didn’t worry about how good it tastes. As I thought, the pie was gone as it was cooled.

Ciao for now

Mt. Etna

Today was a trip to Mt. Edna, which is Sicily’s volcano. We took a train around Mt Edna, rather than trying to take a bus and hike at the top because Mt. Etna is still covered with snow. Along the train route you could see old and relatively new lava rock, sheep, and unusual trees. The trees were barren with a silvery trunk. Philipp told me that he has never seen leaves on the trees. The contrast of the black lava rock and the occasional yellow flowers coming out of the crevices was something to see.

We took a train to the highest point and asked the conductor to let us off the train. You are probably thinking: how did you talk to the conductors and ask him to stop the train at an unplanned spot, which was an old train station that is not in use. These are not normal fast trains. There are two train cabins and they are pretty old and rickety with a lot of graffiti on them. The conductors on the train are very nice and take their job seriously.

They let us off the train and we hiked for about two hours. We really did not get close to the volcano but the sun was shining and the view was breathtaking. There was smoke coming out of the volcano, which gave the appearance of snow being swept up from the wind at the top of the mountain. I dressed in multiple layers anticipating a very cold walk and was stripping as we walked. It was amazing to see some of the beautiful farms on the path. Although pretty isolated, I would really enjoy having Mt. Etna as my view every day.

After walking for a few hours (definitely had my 10000 steps in for the day), we went back to the deserted train station and waved a train down when it passed so it would stop. We went to a town that was supposed to be made out of the lava rock, but it really looked like all the other towns. Not much to see so we had lunch and started back.

When we arrived back there was no one to pick us up (not surprising). So, after already walking for two hours, we had to walk from the train station to Casa Della Acque. It was another 1 ½ hour walk. I definitely wore off the pasta and wine for lunch (probably shouldn’t have had the wine at lunch). My leg was really bothering me, so I did a 30 minute yoga workout to stretch. I am really enjoying the yoga studio and the beautiful music.

To wrap up my thoughts, I would say that it was great to see Mt. Etna up close, but not worth spending my one day off.
Tomorrow is back to work. I really missed the donkeys and dogs, so I am glad to be back.

Ciao for now

A Great Meal

Last night we went for pizza in town. It was supposedly the best pizza around, according to Phillip. I definitely have had better, but didn’t want to make Phillip feel bad. They had over 5 pages of different types of pizza. I chose Caprese . It really was foccacia bread with chopped tomatoes and mozzarella.

Today started as a beautiful sunny day. Supposedly (no one really knows) Nirav is returning, so the Wwoofers cleaned the house. I have not done so much cleaning in over 20 years. I really miss my cleaning lady. My nails have never looked so bad.

Celine and I had lunch duty. As I have said before, it is very intimidating to cook with such good cooks in the group. I decided to make something that I love, Polenta; I made it the way my mom use to make it by putting it on a large platter with sauce on top.

To make the sauce all I had was two cans of tomatoes. So I took Fennel, my new best friend, garlic, and onion and sautéed in a lot of olive oil. I added oregano and the tomatoes and cooked for 1 ½ hours. It was fantastic in my opinion. I served it over the polenta. I made broccoli in the oven with bread crumbs, garlic, and oil as my second dish. You always serve some type of second dish with your pasta. I also made an appetizer of olive brushetta.

We were able to eat outside because the sun was still shining. When the sun is shining in Sicily, there is nothing more beautiful. That lasted until 3pm and back to rain.

There is some dissention between the Wwoof group, including me, and Nela. Nela and Phillip have been managing the farm while Nirav is away. They are a young German couple. Nela definitely is a type A personality. We have an opportunity to go to another farm and watch the woman make bread. Apparently it is a beautiful farm and we really want to go. Nela said she would call, but did not. She definitely has another agenda. We are all pretty upset, since there is nothing to do around here and it is a great opportunity. Even in Italy there is conflict….

Great news – I was able to upload all the pictures to the web in Picasso: http://picasaweb.google.com/pmilano09/Farm3#

I hope you enjoy them. Stay tuned to whether we go to the new farm for a bread making class. Ciao for now.

Sicily Flowers are in bloom

It was a wonderful day today. The sun was shining and it seemed so peaceful. For some reason I was humming all day. I was driving Malcolm crazy. We had to pick some oranges in the morning and finish sorting. We had the largest order, since I have been here. Not only do people buy oranges, they also buy wine, lemons, artichokes, and tangerines. Nirav has a relationship with some of the other farms to supply the things we do not grow. Everything is organic.

We finally asked how much someone pays for a carton (which weigh around 30 lbs). They pay 20 euro including shipping. These things are heavy, so I am not sure of the cost of shipping. I still cannot believe someone would pay so much for organic oranges.

I am still trying to figure out how Nirav makes money. It takes a lot of money to keep the farm going. Most of his help is free through WWOOFERS. He does have to pay Phillip and Nela. I have not met him and really have no idea when he returns (neither does Phillip or Nela). I will let you know my thoughts when I meet him.

Liz was educating me on the many flowers that are edible in the yard. Everything is blooming and flowers are everywhere. There are over five varieties of flowers that you can use in cooking or are great in creams for your skin. I took some pictures and hope that you get to see them when I can get them uploaded. I want to try and grow some of them in my yard (either California or Montana).

I spent a couple hours with the donkeys today trying to get all the burrs out of their fur. I ended up using a scissors, but they were not happy. I could not believe how many there were. Bad news on the chicken front! The small chicken was attacked by something (the other chickens, the stray cat, etc.). She has a big gash in her neck and all the feathers are gone. We isolated her for a while but we had to put her back with the other chickens. Nela attempted to make a collar to put around her neck so the other chickens would not go after the wound, but she stepped right out of it.

Everyone is very tired from a hard day’s work. It will be a quiet night; not that every night isn’t quiet.

Ciao for now

Sun is finally shining in Sicily

Today we made up for all the rain; we picked over 30 crates of oranges and sorted them. It was good to be doing something again. While we were picking the oranges, one of the old time farms starting yelling at Phillip. I guess you are not supposed to pick the oranges when they are wet. He believes that the oranges would do better with the sun today and pick them tomorrow. But we have orders to fill, so we continued picking.

I am taking my responsibility for the chickens very seriously. I made sure they were out of the chicken coup by 7am and fed them this evening. There is one very small chicken that loves to be held. You have to make sure it gets something to eat, because the other chickens take her food.

Our steps didn’t make it. When I took the donkeys down to their grazing area, they were very frightened. Their hooves went way down into the mud on the steps and the boards were already coming out. So much for our ability to do construction. Malcolm is trying to salvage what he can.

I have to take get the bristles out of Pete (the male donkey) tomorrow and brush him. He must roll around in the plant because they are really down into his coat (or do you call it fur). When I was working at getting a few out this morning, the female donkey was biting at me; she wanted attention also. They are so cute.

We had a well deserved lunch with ragu pasta; we also had an appetizer with wild asparagus on garlic bread. Nela used wild fennel in the ragu. It was excellent. Of course, there is always wine. After all the work and food and wine I had to take a little nap.

I was definitely tired with all the noises at night keeping me awake. I am not sure which is worse: the dogs barking, the rooster crowing, or the animal(s) (we think rats) crawling over my head between the ceiling and the roof. Living on a farm is very interesting.

I thought it only appropriate and just finished reading The Sicilian. It was a great book. From what they tell me, it is very true to life in Sicily. I find this region so beautiful and hope to get to Palermo after reading the book.
We are going out for pizza tonight and have Tiramisu for desert. It is great wwoofing with chefs. I am so glad there is no scale around.

Last and very important is an update on my hair (only the grey ones). I found Loving Care Casting, a non permanent color, which I have been putting on every few weeks. It is really great. Why was I paying over $150 a month when I can get the same look for 12 Euro. Of course, the mirrors here are very little and there is no light, so I could look terrible. Ignorance is bliss.

Ciao for now.

Paterno

Last night we were given a gift. The dogs brought home a horse leg. We are not sure where they got it, but it definitely was not on my list of things to see in Italy. Horse meat is like Buffalo meat in the States. Thanks goodness Alfonso took it to the garbage.

Today was another rainy day in Sicily. It is difficult to pick oranges or do maintenance on the farm with the rain. We decided to take a walk to Paterno. The problem was that it was right after lunch, so everything was closed until 4pm. Since we could not walk home in the dark, it was not a very productive visit. What I did notice was that there were 4 driving schools. Now, if you have ever driven in Italy, you know that you take great risks on the road. They are crazy drivers. Not sure why they need so many schools to learn how to drive crazy. Another thing I noticed were the number of stores that were shut down. The poor economy is felt around the world.

When I first decided to come to Casa Della Acque, I was told that the town was only 2km away. I am sure this is an Italian 2km, because it is more like 4km. Phillip dropped us off, so we only had to walk back. Of course, we also were lost for awhile. It felt like the road would never end. We finally made it back and decided that we would watch a video. It is an extremely small TV and we were trying to read English subtitles. It was not the easiest movie to watch.

Hopefully we will have better weather tomorrow. Ciao for now

A Hard Labor Day

Martin left last night, so now I have responsibility for the chickens and donkey. As a start, we decided to redo the steps the donkeys use to go down to the area where they spend their days. The older donkey was having trouble with the rugged terrain. Nela, Celine, and I had to redo four steps. It was definitely hard labor. We had to tear out the old ones, including very large rocks. Now we are in Italy so we did not have the tools that you would assume we would be using. In order to get dirt to fill in the steps, I had to dig it out of another area. The gravel was buried under large dried olive branches. It was definitely hard work and I was exhausted after we completed the task.

Part of the process was clearing the cactus. I even had thorns in my buttocks and they really hurt. Plants grow to be extremely large in Italy with the great weather.

After completing the steps, we sat down to a well deserved lunch. As I mentioned, lunches are a main event on the farm. We had hummus that Liz made from scratch as our appetizer. We had artichoke pasta as our prima course and we had a broccoli frittata for our second course. I had made a cake for Malcolm’s birthday that we finally cooked today (the oven broke last night). Needless to say, I needed a nap after lunch.

The afternoon, which starts at 3pm, was feeding the chickens, bringing the donkeys up to their home and feeding them olive branches and making sure they had water and finally feeding Misty. Misty is the mom of the pups. The pups started eating her food. These puppies are amazing. The are definitely getting fat.

I was glad to spend some time doing yoga to stretch my aching body and wear off some of the lunch. Malcolm has already starting bean and artichoke soup for dinner. I will be very spoiled when I leave here with the great food. I am writing down as many recipes as I can.

Ciao for now

A Sicilian Day

Today was our day off. Everyone had plans to visit different cities around Catania. Rather than take a train to Catania, Phillip offered to take us with him to Catania. He had to drive Phillipo to the airport for a 9:50am flight. Phillipo was supposed to arrive at 8:15am (already a little too late, since Catania is 30km away); remember we are on Italian time. Phillipo came swerving down the road at 8:50am and we jumped in the car. Malcolm was scared s…….. and Liz and I were car sick in the back seat from the swerving. It was a wild ride. We finally arrived at the Catania airport at 9:25am. Amazing but Phillipo made his flight. It was definitely an “E” ride at Disneyland.

My plan was to visit Taormina. It was a beautiful city sitting at the top of the hill. It was definitely a tourist attraction. There were as many Germans as Italians. Anyone visiting Sicily and only seeing Taormina would miss out on the REAL Sicily. It was worth the three hours to visit the ruins and the beautiful park. I enjoyed sitting on a bench in the park and eating a Panini for lunch that I purchased from the corner grocery store.

The coastline is beautiful with the clear blue, shimmering water. I think that it would be much different if I was here in May or June, when the weather is warm and you can enjoy the beach.

Tonight is a party to celebrate Malcolm’s birthday and Martin’s departure; Martin is going back to Munich. We had wonderful sausage. It is definitely not like the sausage in America. It reminds me of the sausage when I was growing up, when we would go to the corner grocery store, Leone’s, and Joe Leone would make it while we waited. They cook the sausage in tomatoes and red wine. I will add it to my list of great recipes to use when I get back.

After the long day I will be ready to have a work day on the farm. Ciao for now

The Sun is Shining and the Birds are Singing

After a very rainy day yesterday, I woke up to the birds singing and a beautiful sunny day. I was glad that we would be busy with picking oranges and the vegetable garden today. Nyla came back yesterday and it really changed the environment. She is definitely in charge and has tasks for everyone to do.

I was a little late to the 8:16am meeting because I stopped to see the dogs. It is so interesting that puppies only 3 weeks only are barking and growling. Apparently they come from a line of Abruzzo dogs; they were bred to guard against wolves. I guess I will not be bringing a puppy home!!

After so much rain, everything was so clean and fresh and the colors were vibrant. While we were picking oranges this morning, you could see Mt. Etna clearly. It is so breathtaking and I am looking forward to going up there next week.

We only needed 10 boxes of oranges, so the remainder of the morning was spent in the vegetable garden. It is a small, well planned garden. Although they put straw down to stop the weeds, apparently not enough and we had to do some major weeding. There is a major compost to fertilize the garden. It is purely organic but everything looks very healthy. I am definitely planting a garden back home.

This afternoon we carried the olive branches out of the field. I definitely got my 10000 steps. I told Martin that we should use a rope and tie the branches in a bundle and carry it out rather than going back and forth with a small bundle. Wow, was I wrong. I got some rope and tied a large bundle. I tried to drag it out but it was so heavy and you had to go over the waterfalls. By the time I finally got the bundle to the truck I was exhausted. Back to carrying the small bundles.

Dinners are definitely an event at Casa Della Acque. Everyone takes turns and the meals are so creative. Today we had couscous with herbs and we put broccoli with chick peas and garlic and etc. on top. As a sauce we had two types of yogurt dishes (one with cilantro and one with parsley, garlic, sesame, etc.). There isn’t a recipe and it would be difficult to recreate the dish as with all the other dishes I have been eating. We typically do not eat traditional Italian food, given that our group consists of Italian, German, French, and American.

Before dinner I usually get in 45 minutes of yoga. I am really trying to keep in shape with all the eating. It is so nice to be in the large yoga room and I get to do only the yoga moves I like. I am playing some of Nirav’s CDs. They are really great. I am really looking forward to meeting Nirav.

Ciao for now