Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Summary of First Adventure of "Paula Unplugged after 60"

This is my final blog of phase one “Paula Unplugged after 60”.

My adventure was everything I wanted it to be. I learned how to make organic bread and sell in the markets of Tuscany in freezing weather and enjoy beautiful hot springs at Podere Le Lapole. I met some of the nicest kids and was able to go four days without a shower at Hirpus in Campagna. I learned all about growing oranges, the beauty of Sicily and survived rats over my bed at La Casa della Acque. I learned how to cook traditional Abruzzo food, how to wait tables, and how to kill, pluck, and eat chickens at Tholos. Finally I learned how to make cheese, herd sheep, and what real farming is like at La Porta dei Parchi.

I would call this a well rounded adventure of a lifetime. I hope to be back in October when I travel on my next adventure. Wwoofing (World Wide Organization of Organic farming) is a wonderful way to travel and learn about the people, their lifestyle, and organic farming. I am not certain as to where I will be going. I still want to pick olives and grapes in the northern part of Italy, I would love to work in Brazil, and I have never seen the countryside of New Zealand. A lot of options and I have the summer to decide.

Anyone up for an adventure? Let me know. I hope you all follow my next adventure.

Ciao for Now

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Last Day in Italy

It was a full day of sightseeing. The traditional Sistine Chapel, St. Peters, and, of course, shopping. I won’t bore you with the traditional stuff. The only comment that I will make is that I definitely have my 10,000 steps for the day.

I was very melancholy all day knowing that tomorrow is my last day in Italy. Although it has only been three months, it was such a change of life style that it will take some getting used to being back. Also, in Italy I could ignore all the day to day issues and responsibilities and just enjoy the moment. I want to make sure I do not get caught up in the rat race when I get home.

As for my hair, I think it is only appropriate that I give you a final verdict. My hair has never looked as healthy as it does now. The non-permanent color does everything it needs to do without damaging my hair. For those that need to dye their hair every two weeks or so, my advice is to go with non-permanent. It takes about three weeks for it to wash out and you have to dye your hair again anyway. Why damage your hair and pay all that money????

Ciao for now

Monday, April 19, 2010

Goodbye to La Porta dei Parchi

Last night was a farewell pizza party at the farm. The Swedish Wwoofers are also leaving today. It started off to be an 8:30pm dinner, which turned out to be a 10:30pm dinner. This is very normal in Italy. It was so nice of them to organize the dinner, but by the time dinner was over I was falling asleep. Us old people can’t stay up until midnight two nights in a row (ok, I will only speak for myself).

It was with mixed feelings that I was leaving La Porta dei Parchi. I had stayed three weeks at the other farms (except the farm from hell) and I felt I was ready to go, but I was only at this farm one week and was leaving early because of my tooth. I really would have liked to stay and learn more about making cheese, Abruzzo cooking, starting a vegetable garden, and Abruzzo culture.

The people at the farm were wonderful: Nunzio, the owner, is one of the most humble, kind, and intelligent men I have met during my stay in Italy; Pasqualino was a riot and really a great guy, who is genuinely concerned about people; All the office staff goes out of their way to help; the people from Romania that make the cheese and tend the sheep are so kind and patient and are willing to share all their knowledge; and finally Gesepe, the gardener, was so terrific and really wanted to help you in any way possible.

I also would have liked to spend more time in Pratola Peligna to get to know my relatives and do more hiking in the National Forests in Abruzzo. I feel that the region of Abruzzo is more the traditional Italy, rather than Tuscany and the big cities (other than Naples). Spending time in all the Abruzzo hillside villages (they are scattered across every mountain) is really getting to know what Italy was like years ago.

There is a strong sense of community among the people of Abruzzo and especially the Agricultural / Farming community. They all try and help each other to sell their products; they truly want everyone to be successful because they are proud of their region.

One common thing that I did observe in most of the farms is how hard it is to be a farmer. Talking with Nunzio and Paula (Tholos) and some of the other farmers in Abruzzo I met, they want to cut back the time they have to spend on the farm. Work never really ends and the monetary rewards are very little. Nunzio is particularly concerned that the young people are not interested in farming and would rather live in the cities. Who will carry on the traditions of Abruzzo!!

On a not so positive note: the farm was a real working farm. The animals, including the dogs, donkey, horses, pigs, were treated like animals. I won’t go into detail but as an example, the dogs were really in bad shape because they were totally outside and only ate table scraps (the puppies were really looking bad by the time I left with all the rain). The donkeys and horses were in a very small and not so clean stall (except for Eric’s great work in the donkey stall). It was difficult to watch but I understood that this was the way it was in a real working farm. I don’t want to make out that they were mistreated; it is just a different view on animals in general. Being an animal lover it is hard to accept.

In summary, I really felt I had a long list of things that I still wanted to do before I departed but I am looking forward to seeing my family and friends and my dog Teca. I am already planning my next trip back.

Nunzio picked us up early today and took us to town to catch our bus. He gave us a full bag of cheese to take back to America. Again, no one asked him to do this, he just showed up.

We spent most of the day on the bus and arrived into rain in Rome. That didn’t stop us from walking from one end to the other. I actually enjoy the rain because most tourists stay inside. After being in Abruzzo for three weeks, Rome is such a stark contrast with all types of people from around the world. Abruzzo is not a real tourist area, so you can go for weeks and never meet another American or person from a country outside of Italy.

Tomorrow I become a traditional tourist; no work, just play.

Ciao for now

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Follow the Flock

Today I went with the sheep up the hillside of the Abruzzo Mountains to graze. Geovani takes them up every day with around 12 dogs. The initial climb up the slippery mountain was a little difficult, but Geovani quickly went back and got two walking sticks for us. I was a little worried when he left us with the sheep. They kept climbing up the hill.

The sheep actually lead the way. They dawdle, drift off, and eat anything that looks green. I am not quite sure what the dogs do; I think they are to keep Geovani company. There are actually two types of dogs: the Abruzzo dogs are for keeping the wolves away, since they look like the sheep (they are all white and look similar to a golden retriever, but larger and white). The other dogs are an eclectic mix that are suppose to herd the sheep. It was so funny when the sheep kept going in places that Geovani did not want. He would be yelling at them and saying in Italian "where are you going". Other times the sheep started grazing rather than continue up the mountain and Geovani would yell at them again. The dogs were just staring at Geovani and didn't even look at the sheep.

The walk is very peaceful and casual. This is not meant to be a super fast hike. It gives you time to really enjoy the landscape and take in all the sounds and smells or the Abruzzo mountains. As you move up the mountain, the landscape continues to change from meadows to large lava rocks. You could hear an owl (or so we think but not sure) in the distance. Apparently many times you see eagles and other animals.

Geovani tried to explain some of the flowers and fruit trees. We would have major discussions and sometimes I could make out a little of what he said and other times NOTHING. I felt bad so I made him think I knew what he was saying. I am sure that May and June are breathtaking with all the flowers and fruit trees in bloom. Sometimes we got into lengthly discussions and realized that the sheep were gone and Geovani raced off to find them by following the sound of the bells (a collar on some of the sheep).

Today was very overcast and we could not see the villages down below. Most days it is clear and you can get a fantastic view. Geovani was prepared with an umbrella; of course, I wasn't.

Geovani is a very nice man from Romania. He comes to the farm for 10 months in order to make money to support his wife and two children. I am sure it must be difficult being away from home so long; apparently he has no choice.

As we are climbing the mountain we came across a fountain, where the animals drink. It is just amazing to think of how they built something like this. I was sad when I had to head down the mountain early to help in the kitchen. Later I was glad I did when the rain actually started coming down. Unfortunantely I forgot my camera (not bright, so I do not have any pictures of this spectacular day.

It was a wonderful way to spend the last day at La Porta dei Parchi. Tomorrow is off to Rome for a couple days.

Ciao for now

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Family in Pratola Peligna


Besides a missing tooth, today was a day that I will never forget. My mother had sent me phone numbers of relatives in Pratola Peligna and I decided to attempt a call. It is very difficult to talk on the phone to someone when you do not speak Italian. I had a backup, since Samantha was in the office and she would be able to help (although Samantha does not speak English, so I still had the issue of talking to her).

Luck was with me because I reached the granddaughter of my mother’s cousin, Marie Luisa. Her boyfriend was there and he speaks English. I told them that I would be taking a bus in the afternoon to visit. Before departing I had to help in the kitchen with over 50 school kids and their parents for lunch. I mentioned that La Porta dei Parchi is a teaching farm also and there are school children visiting regularly. You can imagine the noise with 50 very excited kids running all over the farm.

I arrived at 3:30 in Pratola Peligna and went to the book store that the cousin owned. It was a very interesting book store with magazines, newspapers, and books. In America it would be considered more of a newspaper / magazine stand. The store was on the same piazza where my grandmother was born. We met Marie Luisa and Franca Bianchi and Marie Luisa’s boyfriend Nello. They were so warm and friendly and excited to meet me. They took me to their home to meet their mother/grandmother and Franca’s sister. We spent some time talking (Nello was the interpreter). It was so wonderful to get to know them and to see how they live.

We went back to their store and they gave me a beautiful book of the area and a lot of confetti (candy that is made in Abruzzo). One of the gentlemen I met gave me a gallon jug of wine he makes on his farm. Not sure what I am going to do with a gallon of wine. I also met a few more relatives. We did some sight seeing to a town at the very top of the mountain, where they still do their wash in the community fountains (picture on the right). It was beautiful.

Afterwards we went on a tour of nearby towns and to see Nello’s swim park, which was beautiful. We had fabulous pizza at his restaurant. The pizza was better than the pizza in Napoli (white pizza with potato and ham, red sauce pizza with artichoke and ??, and finally a mushroom pizza (my favorite). We also had an appetizer plate filled with wonderful cheese and meats. It would have been rude not to eat everything, so you can imagine how full I was.

They were so nice to drive me back to Anversa. At Anversa I went to a wild boar party. Of course by the time I arrived, the party was in full swing and many people were feeling the vino. The man having the party kept giving me food and wine and dessert, while everyone laughed. I couldn’t fit another thing in my body; again it is really hard to refuse.

It was difficult NOT to smile all day with my missing tooth. It was good to get back and to bed with my very full stomach.


Now the decision on the tooth!! I decided to return to California a week early to make sure I can get my tooth fixed. I hate to cut the trip, but I feel very self conscious with the missing tooth. I am also concerned on any long term impact, if I do not take care of it quickly. I will be leaving La Porta dei Parchi on Monday for Rome and return to California on Wednesday. I hope to walk with the sheep tomorrow,if there is no rain.

Ciao for now

Friday, April 16, 2010

A Rough Day


Today was a rough day. It started out with rain, so I was hoping to be able to stay in bed and read (I am trying to get over my cold). Unfortunately they found me and off to the olive groves to gather branches. Although it was overcast, it was still beautiful and I was glad that I went. Some of the trees in Italy are so beautiful and the flowers are unusual. You see wild flowers, including tulips, iris, etc. growing wild in the hillside. The picture is of one beautiful tree, but there are many like this.

I spent some time gathering wild asparagus. There are asparagus plants all over Italy. Afterwards I took a two hour nap.

Now the bad news……….In the afternoon I was helping to prepare for a meeting of the agricultural society. Pasqualino gave me a piece of bread to taste; it was hard white bread. My tooth fell out!!!!!! It is my eye tooth that I had hurt many years ago and had a root canal. Now what do I do? It is definitely in the front of my mouth. I have to determine whether to go for two weeks with a missing tooth or shorten my trip. I guess I should sleep on it. I definitely had not planned on shortening my trip; in fact, I was considering expanding it. I will let you know my decision tomorrow.

Ciao for now

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Back to the Olive Trees

I knew it was too good to be true. Gesepe said he would be taking me to a beautiful place today and to meet him at 8:30am. Little did I know that it was back to the olive gardens and picking up the tree trimmings!! It was a beautiful place and the hillside was overlooking Anversa. I spent over four hours picking up and bundling tree clippings. I am really getting good at using sharp tools.

After leaving for lunch, I had to take a 2 hour nap because of my cold. I didn’t even have a chance to say hello to the puppies or the donkey. I have been successful at NOT getting sick the whole trip, but everyone was sick here, so no luck.

It was very cold in the afternoon and we made a fire in our fireplace in the apartment. The farm was deserted because there was a going away party in Anversa. I was given the task of watching the kitchen until they return; apparently there are guests for dinner tonight. Liz made a dessert for the party and I was very happy when Nunzio came in and took a piece and gave me some. I can blame the missing cake on him.

We decided to go to town for dinner instead of eating on the farm. It is about a 10 minute walk, but steep downhill (which means up hill on the way back). We have a flashlight so I am not too worried. The restaurant won’t open until 8pm; I am really getting use to eating lunch at 1:30pm and dinner at 8:30pm. I will have to adjust when I return to the states.

It is hard to believe that there is only two weeks left before returning to the states. I am trying to prioritize everything I want to do (or buy) before my departure. Where did three months go!

Tomorrow we are walking up the hill with the sheep caretaker. We will be leaving at 10am. It will be a long hard day. If the sheep can do it, so can I.

Ciao for now

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Learning Gardening


Today was a productive day. I started out working in the cheese department and Eric was with Gesepe in the vegetable garden. Within minutes they swapped us and Eric was supposedly in the cheese department. He ended up cleaning out the donkey stall (wow is it great to have someone with me to do the tasks I don’t want to do). He had to clean about 10 inches of donkey …………….

I helped Gesepe with planting seeds for all different types of vegetables. My goal is to learn from him because he always has a fantastic garden. He uses the donkey …… that has been sitting for over a year as the fertilizer for the seeds.

I was surprised that he kept the pots with the seeds inside. Perhaps it is because of the cold weather; although today was a beautiful sunny day. He had over 30 different types of vegetables. I am anxious to see the actual garden area.
Tomorrow I am meeting him at 8:30am to go to help plant. I wish that I could be here in August to see all the vegetables ready to harvest. The farm is totally biological.

A couple interesting facts about the farm:
1. The pigs that I thought were husband/wife/baby are actually two big females and the small male pig (not a baby) was purchased to try and have baby pigs. Fat chance of this little pig mating with these big pigs. Nunzio just shakes his head when we talk about it.
2. Nunzio's cheese was recently purchased in Chicago for the White House (yes the president's home). He had the cheese while he was in L'Acquila and loved it. As I mentioned, Nunzio is famous for his Ricotta and Pecorino cheese.
I spent some time today watching them make the cheese. I am hoping to have an opportunity to work with them again, because the process is so interesting. There are different types of Ricotta, including smoked Ricotta cheese.

The afternoon was slow and I took a walk to Anversa. It is a very small village and not much to see. I did get a great dessert (which was actually my purpose of the walk). Although it is only 2 km away, it is a pretty steep hill, so I was able to wear off the desert and get my 10,000 steps in for the day.

Dinner was with all the Wwoofers, Nunzio, the guests, and Gesepe. So we had 2 Canadians, 2 Wwoofers from Sweden, 4 Americans, and 3 Italians. It was great to be in such a warm, friendly place. Malcolm cooked wonderful pasta with a pomodora sauce that had bacon in it. A combination of Italian and English was spoken. I am getting a little better in my Italian.

Everyone has been sick so I am trying to not get sick again, but it is not looking good. I would not want to miss walking with the sheep on Friday because of a cold.

Ciao for now

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Kitchen Duty




I woke up early to see the mountains at dawn. It was breathtaking. It is still very cold and there is a mist in the air that makes the mountains even more beautiful.

I went to see all the animals and spent a few moments with the donkey. I found out that the reason the donkey is in a cage is because he bit another donkey and a horse. He seems to really like me, but I have my guard up.

I spent all day in the kitchen either cooking or cleaning. Liz and Malcolm, yes the Wwoofers from farm 3, are arriving and I wanted the kitchen to be clean for them. It really needed a good cleaning and it took all day. Liz and Malcolm worked at this farm for 10 months as the cooks and are back for a couple weeks before they return to the states.

The meals today were pasta and lamb and soup (and vino of course)…. Remember that there are over 1500 lambs on the farm, so we will be eating lamb every day. At least they did not serve any lamb heads. Malcolm said they are delicious; I am not going to try one to find out.

There were guests at the farm and I used my newly acquired serving skills to wait on the guests. I really think I can use more practice. One couple was English speaking from Montreal. I really enjoy the fact that we eat with the guests, rather than being treated as a servant. It is really a nice farm.

We had lunch with the man who is in charge of the vegetable garden and let him know that I want to work in the garden with him. He is in the process of planting seeds. My goal is to spend tomorrow outside (out of the kitchen). I would love to have a garden in Montana.

I did have time to take a break and play with the puppies. Puppies seem to follow me from farm to farm. One is especially attached to me and wants to be held all the time. Definitely not taking one home; they really shed.

I found out that we can take a walk on the sheep trail. It is supposed to be a fantastic walk. That will be on my day off. The National Forests are really something to see. The variety of trees and flora is very different from America.

All and all the first day was really a good day. I am really looking forward to spending more time to learn what it is like to live on a working farm.

Ciao for now

Monday, April 12, 2010

La Porta dei Parchi

I woke up today to snow in Scanno. All the trees and rooftops had a mist of snow and it was still snowing. Although it limited sightseeing, the overall view was breathtaking. I did a tour around the village of Scanno and, of course, purchased a few things for my empty suitcase.

After lunch I headed for La Porta dei Parchi, Farm 5. Nunzo, the owner, is a world class cheese maker. He is known for his Ricotta and Pecorino cheese. The farm is in Anversa, which is in the heart of Abruzzo. The town is very picturesque embedded in the mountains. I still believe that Abruzzo is the most beautiful of all the regions in Italy.

After arriving and having a lunch (did not really know what I was eating and that is probably better not knowing), I did a tour of the farm and saw the donkeys, pigs, sheep, horses, cow, and Abruzzo dogs.

The donkey wanted attention (you can definitely tell when a donkey wants something) and I had to pet him/her. I really feel that donkeys have great personalities.

I met all the people in the office. Some speak English so it was easy to communicate. Everyone is so nice. I am really looking forward to my time in Anversa. The hillsides around the Agriturisimo / farm are beautiful. Anversa is even prettier than Scanno.

I was put to work cleaning cheese in the afternoon. Once the cheese has aged, you scrub all the mold off the cheese. Although it seems easy, you have to be careful not to break the seal. Tomorrow I hope to see how they actually make the cheese.

Afterwards, I had time to unpack. I am staying in an apartment with a fireplace, sitting room, and a bathroom; no going out in the wilderness for a bathroom. Definitely not a five star, but compared to most of my rooms I feel like it is.

In the evening I helped cook in the restaurant. My first task was to bread the lamb heads including the eyes (I immediately offered Eric’s services). I told Pasqual, the cook, that I would not be eating the heads. This is definitely a different environment from farm 4; I really needed a diet anyway.

The menu was cannelloni, lamb’s head, lamb with eggs and wine, salad, and a dessert of Ricotta with honey and nuts. I bet you already guessed what I ate: the cannelloni and dessert with lots of wine. Liz and Malcolm, the cooks from Sicily, arrive on Wednesday. I hope to be able to start eating again.

The dinner guests were really nice and we actually joined them for dinner. The woman was from Pratola Peligna and recently inherited a house there. We talked about our families and how to find out more information. She currently lives in Lucca.

Tomorrow I hope to take pictures so everyone can see what a spectacular farm this is.

Ciao for now

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Scanno

Today was a very rainy day. I spent the morning in Sulmona walking in the rain and caught the train to Scanno in the afternoon. The trip to Scanno was breathtaking. The view was amazing with the wispy trees and the snowcapped mountains. The bus had to beep its horn coming around the bend because of the narrow road. Scanno is a very small, picturesque hilltop town.

When I arrived I had to find a hotel on a Sunday. This is not an easy task. After knocking for over 10 minutes, I determined that the first hotel was closed; apparently their daughter was having a baby (I found this out at the local bar). The bar told me that the Garden Hotel was the best in Scanno (this was way down the hill).

So in the rain I walked down the hill to find the Garden Hotel totally vacant. Up the hill again to where I started. After over 1 1/2 hours I decided to stay at the hotel right on the square (I know you are asking yourself why I didn’t stay there in the beginning??? My husband asked me the same thing).

The plan is to spend tomorrow morning seeing Scanno (I hope the rain stops) and to be at Farm 5 by 3pm. I am very excited about the next and last farm.

Ciao for now

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Sulmona

We made it in time for the market in Sulmona today (those that know me know that there was no way I would miss this market). Sulmona is a small, historical village and only minutes away from Pratola Peligna. It is very beautiful and one of the tourist towns in Abruzzo.

At the market I was able to buy three kitchen products on the list: an espresso maker and two strainers (not sure if that is what you would call them) one for cooking pasta and the other for shaking flour off the pasta before cooking. I am sure that I could have purchased all in California, but what is the fun in that!

After the market most of the day was walking the streets with all the people. It is Saturday and all the locals are out in the street strolling around. It is their way of meeting their friends after a long work week. It reminds me of my high school days when we use to drive up and down State Street. Not sure these people are looking for boys like we were.

Tonight we went to a musical. We really didn’t know what we were going to, but it seemed like fun. It turned out to be an amateur singing contest. A few of the people were very good, some not. The theater was really cool with all the people hanging over the balconies or alcoves (not sure what you call them); there are three tiers of alcoves on the sides.

Tomorrow we set out for Scanno, another beautiful village in Abruzzo, and Monday back to work at Farm 5 in Aversa.

Ciao for Now

Friday, April 9, 2010

Rome To Pick Up Eric

Today was a travel day to pick up Eric in Rome. The Hotel Morano owner, a very nice woman whose family owned the hotel for generations, took me to the bus stop. This was definitely beyond the call of duty. She even gave me a 5 euro discount on the room and some food for the trip. She was such a wonderful lady, just like all the people in Pratola Peligna.

I was to meet Eric at the Tourist Information Center; that was the plan. As usual I did not follow my own plan and kept going to the platform where the train arrives. Eric had to wait for over a half hour. Oh well, he was so glad to see me that he did not get mad. I am happy to see my husband after so long; It is a nice change to be traveling with someone.

It was a quiet day in Rome, since Eric did not have any sleep for two nights. We returned to the hotel I stayed at two months ago (wow, I can’t believe it has been over two months since I arrived in Italy). Armando is so nice and we had a lot of fun negotiating the price. I am definitely spoiled with the single prices. He gave us a secluded room after my last stay of smoking and snoring in the room next to mine.

We had a great lunch with wine and Eric and I both took a nap. We are getting up early to return to Sulmona so I can shop at the Saturday market. Remember that Eric has a whole suitcase for my extravagance. I am buying flour, an espresso maker, a copper pot, bottles of tomato sauce, etc, etc, etc,. You just cannot get the same ingredients in the U.S.

I am trying to plan how I can fit in all I want to do in the remaining three weeks. There is so much more to accomplish. I would definitely extend the stay, if it wasn’t for visiting my parents.

Ciao for now

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Grandmother's Birth Home

Before I talk about my day today, I forgot to mention two things from yesterday (I must have been tired). The gentleman that took me to Pratola Peligna was very proud of the fact that his farm produced the Farro (type of flour) that Obama ate when he visited L’Aquila. The Agricultural community of Abruzzo is very proud of their products and they should be. He has won many awards for the products he produces. I also met the gentleman that produces the oil that Paula uses in her cooking. He also has won many awards; his olive oil is amazing. I have his phone number and hope to ship some back to California.

Second, I was able to download most of the pictures to Picasso web site :

http://picasaweb.google.com/pmilano09/Farm4#

I know there are a lot of pictures but I am emotionally attached. Just breeze through the ones you don’t want to see. There are a lot of videos also.

Today was a very relaxing day; I even took a nap. I spent the day researching my family and found my grandmothers birth certificate and all the information on her parents. I even took a picture of the house she was born in. As I expected, there are many Pace and Bianchi’s in Pratola Peligna so it is useless to find my relatives.

I have fallen in love with Pratola Peligna and the people. Everyone is so nice to me and I have really enjoyed the conversations. I have a new goal of dual citizenship; I have added a home in Pratola Peligna to my bucket list. I have been welcomed with open arms from my Albergo to the community center, where I researched my grandmother.

I have had gelato both days and it is delicious. My stomach has definitely expanded because I was able to finish a large dish of pasta (prima course) and a large pork chop and eggplant (secondo course) for dinner. Don’t let me forget the half bottle of wine. Not sure what I will do when I return to reality.

Now that Mirta (the other wwoofer) has left, I find myself starting to talk more Italian. It is interesting how you adapt to being independent over night. It really is good being immersed in the language with no one to help you.

The hotel (a very nice woman that owns it) is taking me to the bus stop tomorrow to travel to Rome. I will be picking up my husband, Eric, to join me at my last farm. I think it is important that he understand how wonderful Wwoofing is.

I hope that this adventure will continue for a long time in other countries or in Italy. We will have three days before we have to be in Aversa for our last farm. Eric doesn’t know that most of the time is trying to buy all the products that were used in cooking before I leave. I had Eric bring a large empty suitcase. I plan on spending all the money I saved by working on farms.

Ciao for now

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Pratola Peligna

It was a sad farewell to Gabrielle, Paula, Marideia, Zella, and Dalia. I woke up early to feed the animals for the last time today. This morning Fantino definitely had his way with Nina. I anticipate a new donkey in 12 months. I can’t imagine that she is not pregnant after watching how the baby was consummated. I won’t go into details, but I will say that Nina seemed to enjoy it after putting up such a fuss.

The Organization for the Abruzzo Agriturisimo’s met at Tholos today. Mirta and I prepared the restaurant with Maridela and Zella. Paula had pasta (as usual) and wonderful meatballs made without meat (I am sure they are not called meatballs but looked the same). They were made with bread, eggs, parsley, and parmesan cheese. They were delicious.

Paula gave me three different kinds of flour that are made at Tholos. I am gathering baggage as I go. I also have a list of items that are a must buy before I leave in three weeks. Saying goodbye to everyone was hard. Tholos was really an adventure. To summarize the highlights:

1. I gained at least 5 lbs. (I am hoping only 5lbs) from eating all the wonderful food.
2. I wrote down as many recipes as possible but many of the ingredients will be hard to get in the U.S. ( I am already making excuses as to why my cooking didn’t improve)
3. Mirta and I had many laughs about no bathroom at night, the different orders from different family members, Nina and Fantino, the long night with the 10 kids in our house, etc…..
4. I learned how to be a waitress
5. I realized that farm life is a lot of work but very rewarding
6. I gained a new appreciation for Abruzzo and the people of Abruzzo and am proud to have this region as part of my heritage

One of the men from the meeting drove me and Mirta to Pratola Peligna, where my grandparents were raised. The drive was breathtaking with the green country side and the snow capped mountains. Abruzzo is definitely the prettiest of all the areas I have visited.

Pratola Peligna is a wonderful village imbedded in the hillside. Although it seems to be a good size village, there is only one hotel and restaurant; there are a lot of bars. After walking around this evening, I decided to stay for two nights. It will be a good place to relax and get set for my next adventure. I hope that I can find some long lost family members, although it is unlikely.

It is really hard to believe that I only have three weeks left before I return home. I am starting to pick up the language; although people that talk to me still cannot understand what I say.

Ciao for Now

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Final Days at Tholos

Last night was a night from hell. The ten young Italians that were in our house were up past 3:30am in the morning. I almost went out to see if the girl (it was 9 guys and 1 girl) was all right because she kept screaming. We were so tired the whole day. The good thing is that Paula and Gabrielle did not ask us to do anything; they realized that we were very tired.

The only major event of the day is Fantino (the donkey; I think I have been calling him Farantino and it should be Fantino because I was corrected today). Maradia and I were trying to untie him because he was making so much noise. The problem was that Nina was in sight and he really wanted her. We put Nina in her pen and tried to get Fantino in a better spot in the yard, but he was pulling us so fast we could not stop him with the rope. Again you had to be there to enjoy the comedy. I really feel sorry for him.

I was finally able to take a shower after three days. It was very quiet once the kids left and I had time to play with the puppies and relax. Tomorrow we have all the agriturisimo organization coming for a meeting and in the afternoon I will be leaving for Pratola Peligna, where my grandmother and grandfather are from. I have 4 days before I arrive at my next and final farm at Anversa.

Paula gave us a couple books on traditional Abruzzo recipes. My mom will be very excited when I go home and cook for her. It will be difficult to say goodbye to the family. They are so nice and I have really enjoyed my time at Tholos.
Tonight we have the house to ourselves and even a bathroom. I will sleep soundly.

Ciao for Now

Monday, April 5, 2010

So Many Funny Stories

First off I have something that is rather upsetting to tell you. Yesterday I talked about Franco, the Italian man who is helping wash the dishes for the restaurant. Franco is a small, thin man who drinks wine all day and is hunched over with balding hair. He is really hysterical and a nice older man. The very upsetting news is that I found out that Franco is two years younger than me. NOW I really feel old.

Mirta (the other wwoofer) and I were laughing so hard we were crying last night reminiscing about our day and all the things that happened. We were especially laughing about how we were going to get to the bathroom during the night. Mirta got the key to the restaurant, so we were prepared. At 1:30am I attempted to use the key. I tried and tried, but the door would not open. I ended up using the great outdoors. I really am concerned about tonight, since it is raining.

Nights on the farm are very noisy. As one of the campers staying on the property put it: “it is like being in a zoo”. Between Farantino the donkey, the rooster, and the dogs, you have noise all night. Poor Farantino is still hoping Nina will come around and like him. Nina is hiding in the barn and won’t come out, although every once in a while she looks out. I think she is teasing Farantino.

Tonight we have a group of 10 young kids in our apartment. It is so noisy. We are hoping they will burn out by midnight. I have not had a shower for two days because we have no bathroom. We were promised that tomorrow we would be back to normal.

Today there were more people than yesterday for lunch; I didn’t think it was possible. We worked nonstop from 8am to 4pm waiting on tables. I really enjoyed talking with the people (if you call using sign language talking). They really enjoyed trying to speak English. Mirta and I are looking for our tips.

The meals are fantastic with 3-5 appetizers, a first course that has two types of pasta, a second course with two types of meat, and a dessert. They only charge 30 Euros for the meal. Not sure how they make any money to run the farm. They all work so very hard, especially the daughters. The daughters have to spend their weekends working on the farm and go to the university during the week. Not a great way to spend all your time while you are in your 20’s. They have a good attitude and don’t seem to mind that they have to come and help.

The puppies are getting so cute. The littlest one is growling; we were laughing at it. Once again it will be hard to leave on Wednesday.

I know I promised to talk about the food today, but had a lot to say. I will put it in tomorrow’s blog.

Ciao for now

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Happy Easter

Today was a very long and wonderful day. At first, when I saw all of the families and the children, I had a wave of homesickness. It soon passed with all the work to be done. It started with over 40 people for lunch at 12:30pm and ended at 10pm. The families were very large with at least three generations. The people really love food and a lot of wine. Easter is a very special holiday. Apparently it is as important as Christmas.

It was very hectic in the kitchen and we had the typical Italian tempers that flared up and died down quickly. The menu was 8 different appetizers, 3 different pastas, 2 different meats with potatoes, and dessert. You can see how it was a busy day to make sure all the courses were served. Tomorrow I will give you detail on the food.

Franco the dishwasher is a riot. He is a very small, thin Italian man with no teeth. He gets through the day by drinking wine. He is so quick at everything he does; we just wait for the next disaster. He keeps telling me to sit down and to come to work at 9am instead of 8am. You really have to see him to appreciate how funny he is. Apparently he helped Paula and Gabrielle build the restaurant. Not sure I would trust him as a precise builder, but what do I know about building. He ignores the daughters when they tell him what to do. The girls just roll their eyes.

Serving in a restaurant is a very new experience for me. I had a couple spills but for the most part I managed. I met a few people and they were so nice. The one table kept asking this one man to ask me a question. He is studying English. So he finally asked me the question and it was: How old are you? I pretended he didn’t ask the question correctly.

Although I am exhausted, it was definitely an experience to remember. Now I am in my room with a group of 17 Italians staying in the same house. They are very loud and I am not sure how I will get any sleep. We have no bathroom and have to go all the way to the restaurant to use the facilities. Did I say that I was on VACATION???

Ciao for now

Saturday, April 3, 2010

A Busy Day in the Kitchen

The clock was ticking and everyone was getting a little tense in the kitchen today. There was a lot of fighting between the daughters and the mom. It was so much fun watching the interaction, although I could not tell what they were fighting about. They are a very close family, so the fighting blows over quickly.

The Pork that we rolled was cooking in the oven and it smelled fantastic. I learned how to make fresh cheese from goat milk. It is a very expensive cheese that only the rich can afford. Gabrielle milked the goats in the morning and Paula made the cheese during the day. It was outstanding.

The menu for tonight was two fresh cheeses that were made on the farm, and prosciutto for appetizer, pasta for prima course, pork and salad for the secondo course, and Easter cake for dessert. It was outstanding.

I have been working the tables as I mentioned and I learned how to hold three dishes at once. I am very proud of myself. It has been a riot working with the family. One person tells me to do something one way and another comes by and tells me to do it another way. I am laughing inside.

At one point I was told to watch one of the tables called Danielle. I thought they said the daughters name and went and stood by the daughter. She asked what I wanted and I said I didn’t know. I later realized I was supposed to be at one of the tables. Later that evening I was trying to tell them what I had done but, between the laughing and the language gap, they were just staring at me while I was laughing so hard I was crying. They think I am nuts.

Tonight we have no bathroom; we lost our bathroom to guests. If we have to use the bathroom, we have to walk down to the restaurant. It is not a smooth walk and we are using flashlights. I purposely did not drink much to hopefully make it through the night but at my age the chances are slim.

Tomorrow I can watch them make Ravioli and I am very excited to see how they make them compared to my mom.

Happy Easter everyone! Ciao for now

Friday, April 2, 2010

A Day off in Pescara

Today I decided I needed to take the day and relax and catch up with my family. Madera gave me a ride to Pescara, a beach town about 23km from Roccamorice. On the way she told me about the different towns and culture. She believes that Roccamorice is more closed minded and not social, where the neighboring town, which looks charming, is much nicer.

Once in Pescara I set out to accomplish a number of things. First and very important, I made an appointment for a manicure. After all the gardening and working in the yard my nails were so bad that I was hiding them in the evenings. I just could not get them clean.

Then I had to get my computer fixed. I panicked the night before when I could not get the computer to log into my user. I spent over an hour with Computer Discount (they did not speak English so it took most of the time to get them to understand what I needed). Finally he was able to get my computer back to normal. It was such a relief, since this is my only link outside of Tholos to family and friends.

I had a laundry list of things to buy, including a hair dryer. I have been air drying my hair and it is looking pretty bad. My hair is now longer than I can remember and it is hanging down from not styling it. The hair coloring is working but I am not sure I like the dark hair (without highlights). Wow, am I going to a hair dresser when I get back. I know you are tired of hearing about my hair.

I took a walk along the beach. Since it is still pretty cold for the beach, it was deserted. It looks like a wonderful beach town and I would love to see it in the summer. Other than shopping and beach, there is not much to do in Pescara.
I was then able to talk with all my children, parents, and husband. It was so nice to see my parents. My sister was visiting so they could actually see me. They have been so worried and, of course, want me to come home.

Last was the bus trip back. Everyone knows how I hate the bus system. I was actually very good and made it to the Pit Stop Bar. The walk home with a backpack was another story. I was lost… not sure how it happened, since I have been on this road before. After walking for 30 minutes up hill (yes Casey would be so proud of me), I stopped to ask for directions. Of course we were communicating in Italian. Zela drove by just in the nick of time. She was running an errand for bread.

I arrived in time to help serve dinner to the guests (15 people tonight). I have never waited tables. I enjoyed it. I still cannot carry more than two things. Paula gave me a disgusted (yes that look in Italian is the same) when I was using my body to hold it up rather than balance on my arm. Not sure they will let me tomorrow, since it will be a big crowd with all Italians. Tonight two of the tables spoke English. On group was from Chicago and the other from Toronto Canada.

Looking forward to eating all the food the next two days. I will be giving you a description of the menu, so stay tuned.

Ciao for now

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Nina's Day

It was a difficult day for Nina (the donkey) today. Farentino came over to the farm to make love to Nina. For those that read my earlier email, you know that Farentino is not Nina’s type of man. She didn’t want anything to do with him. Sad but he had his way with her in the end. They will know in three months whether Nina is going to have a baby.

We spent most of the morning gardening again. My hands are raw and have blisters and thorns in them. I am really done with gardening. It is not easy with the soil of Abruzzo, which is like clay. The farm has all kinds of plants with thorns and pickers. We have been digging them out. After this morning I decided to take tomorrow as my day off. mu body is so tired and I need a break; yes, I am whining.

In the afternoon we made meatballs. Paula’s meatballs are very different from mine. She uses 4X the amount of bread, parmesan, and eggs. She also uses olive oil, parsley, garlic, and ground beef like I do. It is just the proportion of all the ingredients that is very different.

Dinner consisted of minestrone soup and meatballs and salad and bread and wine and panna cadda desert. I don’t think I have ever eaten so much food in my life. It was definitely the best minestrone soup I have had. I made the panna cadda so I thought that was good also.

We have guests staying at the Agriturisimo from Toronto, Canada. It is great talking with people in English, since I mostly just listen to other people’s conversations in Italian. The people start arriving on Saturday through Tuesday for the Easter Holiday.

I am looking forward to talking with my family tomorrow, when I am in Pescara.

Ciao for now