Spiritual Retreat

It was a sad farewell to the hustle and bustle of Thamel. I have only a few days left in Nepal and decided to spend them at a Buddhist Monastery, Kopan Monastery. It is magnificent, perched on a hill above Kathmandu Valley.

When I arrived at Kopan, I felt the peace and harmony of the surroundings. I spent the first few hours in the Gompa, while there was a teaching going on. Although I really didn’t know what they were saying, it has really wonderful to just sit and take in the surroundings.

I was hoping to have a personal teaching on Buddhism, but there is a class going on so it is not possible. They do have a cyber café, can you believe it, but it is really limited. I am actually writing this standing up and typing at head lever in order to use my own computer.

I have met many people that have been here for weeks. They are on their personal retreat. It is that type of place. Many people hate to leave. The people are from around the world and all ages. I guess they are like me, trying to find myself.
I can’t upload pictures, but go to the www.kopanmonastery.com website and take a look at the beautiful surroundings that I am experiencing.

Namaste

Wrapping Up

I had my last day at Tewa yesterday. It was a sad farewell. All the staff met in the conference room and each person told me how much they appreciated me and I told them a little something special about my work with them personally. They gave me a farewell paperweight. I still find it hard to believe that it has been 1 ½ months since I arrived in Nepal. I had a new route to catch the bus and thought I would share a couple pictures: one of the women selling the flowers used as an offering in the temples; the other is a dog watching the meat shop, waiting for that little bit of meat. I met with the management and founders of Tewa today to review the marketing plan and talk about next steps. It was a good meeting and hopefully the action plan will be implemented. I am hoping to work with Tewa from the US to give any support I can. I have a goal of returning next year. I would like to form a group of women that would like to see Nepal and enjoy my experience on a Trek. I would be the coordinator of the visit in exchange for them meeting the Tewa team and learning about their work. Anyone interested, let me know?? I spent a good portion of the afternoon looking for a prayer wheel and found one in Patan. I got it for a great price. Now I had to put it with all my other stuff to ship it back home. I ended up spending $164 in freight charges to get all my purchases and winter clothes back to the states. I just didn’t want to carry all the stuff I bought. It has been nice and relaxing this week. I think I am still mellowed out from my trek. I know I am still really tired. I go to Kopan Monastery tomorrow for a couple of days of meditation and studying Buddhism. I am very excited to go. Namaste

The Five Day Trek to Poon Hill

I am back from an exhilarating, exhausting five day trek to Poon Hill. It will be difficult to describe the five days and do it justice. I took a lot of pictures, but I was trying to keep up with two tall 25 year olds, so I missed out on a lot of photo opps.

Day 1

Our trek started with a windy 1 ½ hour ride from Pokhara to the start point of our trek. First let me say that I was definitely not the only trekker there. Tourists flock into Nepal to trek and this particular trek is one of the most popular. Our team consisted of Geta, our guide, three girl porters , who carried our luggage, and two other trekkers: Jeannine, a young Swiss girl, and Florentine, a young girl from Holland. Thank goodness that the porters were young and new because they were keeping my pace, rather than trying to keep up with the young trekkers.

We had to go through two checkpoints before starting out for our four hour walk on the first day. Although there were some difficult up hills, it was a relatively easy day; although I did not know this because I had nothing to compare it against until day 2. Most of the time we were walking from one rural village to another in some beautiful farmland.

That evening our tea house was perched on the side of the mountain with breathtaking views. We had a lot of people from the other tea houses come up just to have a drink and take in the farmlands and villages and mountains. The tea house had hot showers; I learned how much I appreciated that when I arrived at the other tea houses with only cold showers. Our food was either rice or noodles every night; so we always rotated. No one attempted any type of meat.

The bathrooms were always outside. Most of the time the toilets were the ones you stand over a hole and I try and aim for that small hole. I don’t think I ever totally made the hole. This night I had to try and hold my torch and go the bathroom. When I was done and trying to get my pants back on without touching the floor, my torch slipped from my hand and was in the hole; wouldn’t you know that would make the hole!! Now this is really gross. I had to get my torch back by picking it up out of the hole. I never told my fellow trekkers; I was too embarrassed and grossed out. From then on I figured a way to keep the torch in my hand.

The routine every day was: up to breakfast (except the day to Pooh Hill), tea break at 10:30am at one of the tea houses along the way, lunch at one of the tea houses, arrive at the overnight tea house, tea and cookies at 4pm, and dinner at 6:30pm. Some days I was watching the clock to get a break… especially day 2 and 3.

Day 2

I was told that we would be climbing 3200 steps on this day… they forgot to mention the other 4000 steps afterwards. The excuse was that no one had counted them… I think they just were afraid to tell me. Yes, I was a whiner.

The steps are not your standard steps. Many times I had to use my walking stick to pull me up they were so high. My calves and thighs were calling to me… As we moved up in altitude it was even harder to breath and I had to stop every 10 minutes to catch my breath. It was at this point I was wondering why I was doing this. Was I nuts!! I was not in shape for this type of climb (I hadn’t been to boot camp in over 2 months).

Once we completed the 3200 steps I felt I had really accomplished something; thank goodness it was lunch time. So I was very specific in asking Geta again, if we had any more steps after lunch. She said we had one more set and then down, down, down. Well, that was not the truth… her comment later was” she was sparing me”.

After lunch we had to walk up another 2000 steps (no one counted these steps, but I am confident in my number). Again I felt exhilarated that I had made it to find out we had another 2000 steps.

You are going to ask how I liked the scenery… Who looked!! I was so focused on getting up the steps I didn’t have time to look. It was a grueling experience. You can imagine how wonderful it was to reach our tea house that evening and we were very excited because the sign said chocolate cake (unfortunately there was no chocolate cake. We had to wait until we reached the German Bakery on Day 4 to get our cake.. it kept us going).

All three of us sat like zombies that evening and didn’t even talk, while we drank our tea. We bought some cards and I taught them crazy eights. I could barely keep my eyes open waiting for dinner at 6:30pm. After dinner I left the table and never returned… I was exhausted and slept over 10 hours.

Day 3 Elevation 3200

It was up at 4:45AM to start out at 5am with all the other trekkers to reach Poon Hill at sunrise. There was a line of trekkers with their torches (flashlights) in a line heading up the hill. Yes, it is a trekker must and no one wanted to miss it. The problem came when we are in a line like cattle moving up and one cow couldn’t make it and had to stop.. I was the cow… For some reason I was really light headed and kept on having to stop. Of course all the porters stopped with me to make sure I was ok… I tried not to have a traffic jam on Poon Hill.

When I finally made it I had a huge cup of tea with sugar and was revived. I was rewarded with a spectacular clear day at sunrise. You are always at risk that it is a cloudy day and your efforts to climb the hill are for not. We could see the Annapurna range and the Holy Mountain. The sunrise was beautiful. I took a video (see below) of the mountain range.

Back at the tea house for breakfast and another day of STEPS… who makes these steps?? We climbed up and down and up again… I am not sure the steps down are any easier because sometimes I had to crawl down them they were so high. Again, my tall young fellow trekkers had no problems.

We ended up at 2900 elevation and reached the tea house shortly after the rain started. Just so you know that no one stops, if it rains. The steps are very slippery and everyone had their backpack rain covers and a rain jacket. If the donkeys could do it, we can do it.

I was definitely sweating all day, but the thought of an outside cold shower in the cold rain was not appealing. It was very cold. The restaurant consisted of a very long table with a fire burning under it. It really kept your feet warm. We just had to yell at everyone going out and in to shut the door.

There was some partying at the tea house with a World Expeditions group… they had a short ½ day and were drinking through the afternoon. I would have loved to see them the next morning for their 6 hour trek.

I purposely did not drink anything, even water, because I did not want to go outside to go the bathroom in the middle of the night; it was very cold at this elevation. I was rewarded that evening with a spectacular view of Holy Mountain. It was probably the highlight of the trip; even compared to Poon Hill. It was so spectacular; I just wished I had a better camera.

I felt I was getting a little stronger because I didn’t go to bed until after 7pm that evening. One of the families on the road taught us a new card game and we played until the lights went out. From then on, when we had a moment, the cards came out for a game. I can’t wait to teach the ladies in Erie.

Day 4

It was a half day trek today and we were lucky because it poured all day. Most of the trek was in the beautiful forest with lovely waterfalls. We were trying to find the large monkeys. Of course, the Nepali girls never stopped laughing and talking, so the monkeys definitely knew we were coming. I didn’t get to see a monkey!!

We spent the afternoon at the tea house playing cards and touring the village. Again no hot water and I was really starting to smell. We finally had reached the village with the German Bakery for our cake. So we brought our cards and went down the restaurant and we were ready to eat delicious rich chocolate cake.. my imagination was going wild. Well, it was a GERMAN chocolate.. I think they forgot to put in the chocolate or any liquids. It was so dry and terrible.

We actually stayed up until 9pm, can you believe it, playing cards. Our room had three small beds that were almost touching each other, no blankets, and no real light. We never understood how every other room was larger and with blankets… we didn’t even bother to ask. We slept in layers in our sleeping bags.

Day 5

Our last day and I had to catch a flight back to Kathmandu so everyone had to get up early and start our walk through the forest and along the river and ALL downhill. It was a beautiful walk. We passed many rural villages and waterfalls. The farmland was breathtaking. I even stopped to take pictures.

Many times we had to stop and move over to let the mules and donkeys pass as they carried supplies up the hill. It really upset me when the boys would whip the donkey even if he/she was already moving. I would tell the boys to stop hitting them; unfortunately they did not speak English.

We reached our destination in record time. It should have taken 5 hours and we made it in 4…wow am I amazing or what!! Although all downhill, it was so slippery and Florentine fell twice and I fell once. It was as difficult on the thighs and knees downhill as uphill, but at least I could breath.

We arrived in plenty of time to catch my plane, although I almost missed it because I did not hear them call and it left a ½ hour early. I was so tired that I went to bed very early. It was so nice to have a warm bed and a hot shower. I even dyed my hair so I was ready for work tomorrow. This has been an experience of a lifetime. I can’t believe I am saying this, but I am already planning my next trek.

Namaste

The Trek

Today was a prep day for my trip, including a massage. I met the other two ladies on my trek… they are young and in great shape… I definitely will be at the tail end of the pack.

I will be walking 4 to 6 hours per day for five days. No computer on the trek so I will keep a journal and give you a day to day description when I get back.

Namaste

Peace Pagoda

Although my calves ached from walking up to Sarangut, I made the hike to Peace Pagoda. Peace Pagoda Nepal is the 71st Peace Pagoda in the world. They were started by the Japanese after Hiroshima. The goal is to build 100 Peace Pagodas.
We had to cross the lake to get to the start of the hike up.

The Peace Pagoda stands high on a mountain and can be seen from all of Pokara. The boat ride across the lake was beautiful. For a short time the mountains were very clear and you could see the whole range on Anapurna Mountain Tops.

I met a couple women from UK and hiked with them. They had just returned from an 11 day hike. I couldn’t keep up with them and was having a hard time with all the steps. They also informed me that this was light compared to my trek in a few days. I am really worried… almost want to back out.

I did decide to make sure I had a walking stick and a camelback type day pack to get all the water I need without having to carry it. So today is shopping again and making sure all my clothes are washed. I am confident that I will be prepared with my packing.. just not physically or mentally prepared. I haven’t met the other people on the trek, but I hope they are like me and we can keep the pace slow.

Namaste

Sunrise and Sunset

I sat and watched sunset last night. It was beautiful and peaceful setting over the lake.

It was up at 4:30am and in the taxi by 5am to reach the summit at sunrise. The taxi dropped us off around ¾ of the way to the top. We (Rebecca, a lady from Australia, and the guide) had to climb…and climb…and climb many steps. Rebecca said that this was even easier than the trek and much shorter. I think I may be in trouble.

There were only two people ahead of us at the top and a few more came afterwards. It was really beautiful with views of the Annapurna Mountain Ranges. Sunrise was nice, but it was pretty light even before it came up. Still doesn't compare with So. Cal.

The weather is interesting. Very cold in the morning and hot around 8am. The sun is extremely bright and I definitely will have to wear a lot of sunscreen on the trek.

I decided to take a taxi to see the Tibetan Monastery outside of town. I had to negotiate for 15 minutes on a taxi price to finally get there and there is NOTHING really to see. Oh Well!

When I got back, I immediately found some coffee and rested most of the day reading a book and watching movies.

Namaste

Off to Pokhara

Pokhara is beautiful, peaceful, and clean. I am looking forward to a few days of sightseeing and my trek. Since I had to get up early and catch me flight, I spent most of the day wandering the streets (and shopping again) and took a nice nap after my beer at lunch.

There was a major rainstorm for ½ hour, while I was at dinner. This is actually good news because I am going to mountain village outside of Pokhara to watch sunrise. The visibility will be better with the rain.

I have to be out of the hotel by 5am, take a 30 minute taxi, and hike 40 minutes to be at the viewpoint at 6:15am. I am looking forward to it. Yes, I can just hear some of you telling me I am nuts.

Namaste

A Colorful Day

I started the day right with a massage and facial. I had a 1 ½ hour massage and a 1 hour facial for $25. Can’t go wrong!! I managed to get to and from the spa by dodging balloons with water and colored powder. I stayed at a restaurant across from the spa until the groups left the street. It really turned out to be the tourists against the Nepali boys. The tourists were really into it. I think the Nepali boys were winning.

I decided because I was so good in the early morning that I would venture out for lunch after I showered and washed my hair.. I was really hungry. I didn’t get three blocks before I ended up with powder and water all over me… forget going out to lunch and ended up at the hotel restaurant, which is not that good. I had to take another shower.

I sat it out for the day on the roof with a bunch of people enjoying the sun (yes, Bev it is now sunny in Nepal. You can come and visit.) and having a large beer. We were waiting to go to Boudhna at the full moon to see all the lights and walk around the Stupa. It was amazing. They had a large tent filled with monks chanting. Again, I was so inspired by the atmosphere and the people.
Tomorrow I get up early for my trip to Pokhara.

Namaste.

Tourist of the Year

What a day. I started out as a normal California woman going to work in Nepal and ended up the OFFICIAL tourist of the year for Lalitpur. Lalitpur is one of the major districts around Kathmandu. I am sure you are waiting to hear the story on this.

Tomorrow is Holy Holy… a big day for the Hindus and not so great for the tourists (remember the water and colored powder). Well, Holy Holy is celebrated for three days.

Today in the village where Tewa resides there was a big festival; the first they have ever had and a major event for the village. The Chief District Officer (the governor in US terms) came to the city to cut the ribbon and participate in a parade. There were many types of dancers, Nepali bands, a devil doing a dance, a big Yak, etc as part of a parade. There were booths with locals selling food, handicrafts and such. I helped set up Tewa’s booth for the festival.

The office manager of Tewa is very involved in the village and gave me tour of the village in the morning. We meet the head of the village and saw the government offices and so on and so on. I thought she was really being nice introducing me to all the officials and they were so happy to see me. I thought it was my winning personality.

So.. let me get to the point.. The Chief of Police and Chief of District have beautiful orange flowers put around their neck by the village officials. I am trying to take pictures, when Shree (office manager) says come on Paula. I just look at her. She says you are getting flowers put around your neck by the Chief of the District and are part of the parade… your are "Tourist of 2011 or Lalitpur".. In Nepal this is “The Year of Tourism 2011”; you see banners all over.

I had to walk in the front line with all the government officials around the whole village. I felt like Princess Di doing Namaste to all the villagers as I walked around. I bet you are glad you know such a famous person.

Namaste

Paula vs the Motorcycle

It was an interesting day. Yesterday the whole office went dead with a big surge. I did not realize that it fried my charger until today. I had to spend $90 to get a new one. So, no computer until the afternoon. I realize that my computer is a life line to reality… maybe good, maybe bad.

The office was pretty unproductive, given the lack of a compressor (remember there are no lights for 14 hours a day, so everyone relies on a compressor. So I read my kindle .. lonely planet Cambodia to get ready for the last leg of my trip.
I also took my orange Kurta to be hemmed (it will cost me $1). I decided there was too much orange and to wear it with jeans or as a dress (although it is see thru).

While walking back from the seamstress, I was trying to avoid a puddle (you never know what is in the water) and took a motorcycle down; I really mean down. The poor guy fell trying to avoid me. Now, I know some would think it was my fault, but the cycles turn their motor off when they go downhill to save gas, so you cannot hear them. I still was on the side of the street, but he wasn’t planning on my swerve. Thankfully the guy did not hit me.

I left the office early (again no electricity so nothing to do) to get started on my move to a new hotel. Now the real adventure starts!! The hotel I went to did not have a room, so they sent me to another hotel (I think it is somehow related) down the road. There were all men and a lot of smoke.. did I feel uncomfortable. I got out of there quick and finally found a hotel with one room left; April is tourist season. I had to pay $32 for a very plain room and no breakfast included. Wow am I spoiled at my other hotel.

I will move to a new hotel tonight that is only $20 (no breakfast). I guess it is the price I pay to be in the midst of the tourists… am I nuts. But I am close to where I can get an early massage, facial, and reike for $20. I think it is going to be a good Saturday.

Namaste

Finishing Touches

I am in the process of printing out all my material to deliver to Tewa. My work is complete. I just need to meet with the heads of the department and founder to review my findings. I am really happy that I was able to complete it, as well as do some cold calling. I even have had good results with the telemarketing. People are alot nicer in Nepal, when you make a cold call, then US.

I am postponing my trip to Pokhara by one day so I can be at the Boudna on the full moon for the tea cup candle ceremony. It will be very special and I am very excited about it. Only one difficulty – it is on the same day as the festival of colors (remember the water balloons and colored powder that the kids throw at everyone, especially tourists). Most Nepali people stay at home and have parties because of the dirty water balloons. Not sure how I am going to get to Boudna in one piece. Stay tune.

I really think it will be a miracle if I make it through Nepal without getting run over by a car or motorcycle. The Nepal drivers are really aggressive and I have had numerous close calls. Only glad I bought the insurance to airlift me, if I am hurt.

I am starting to plan my trip to Cambodia.. am seriously thinking of adding Laos for one week. It is really going to be hot in both places. I was able to download the lonely planet to my borrowed Kindle. This device is really great for traveling. I have downloaded three books… nothing to do but read.

Namaste

A Sick Day

I was not feeling well today, so I decided to go home early. I slept for three hours in the afternoon.

I had purchased 5 DVD’s of the top movies (of course they are bootlegged, but I am desperate for something to watch). I spent hours trying to get them to work. I would get through ¾ of the movie and it would stop; how infuriating. I finally made it all the way through inception… I am still working on the others. Some do not work at all. You definitely get what you pay for.

I am having a difficult time deciding on whether to postpone my trip to Pokhara and leave on the 21st, rather than the 19th. I was going to take a bus for 7 hours to get to the birthplace of Buddha on the 20th. It seems like a long way. I guess I am getting tired of sightseeing.

Namaste

Last night was a very spiritual day. I decided that I would go back to the Bouddha Temple at sunset and walk around the stupa with the Monks and other people. It was very magical. I had seen the temple during the day and it was totally different. Basically everyone has beads (like rosary beads) and chants as they walk clockwise around and around the stupa. As the sun sets, there is grandness about the stupa that was not there a few minutes earlier.

The true significance is the people and their devotion. I believe that the Hindu and Buddha beliefs are what make the Nepali people so happy. How else can you explain the positive attitude amidst such poverty? It really made me aware that I want to understand more.

Although I am not feeling well today, I am planning on going to the Himalayan Buddhist Meditation center from 6 to 7 to meditate. I think it will be a good follow up to a wonderful evening the day before.

Just a side note: I met with the head of the Nepal office of the American Himalayan Foundation, Bruce Moore, for coffee before the walk. This organization is very similar to Tewa, but it is headquartered in the U.S. I hope to get involved in the organization when I return.

Namaste

Bugamati Village

Today was a quiet, sightseeing day. I went to Bugamati, a very traditional Newari village. It was really nice to see a small village, without the hustle and bustle like Kathmandu. Many of the men were woodcarvers. The women were weaving sheep’s wool into thread. There were sheep, goats, and a lot of ducks.

It was the day for washing clothes and taking baths. Many of the women were topless bathing in the street and the children were crying because they had to get a bath (sound familiar). Of course, they were bathing in cold water.

At the temple the men were using fire and water and giving food and flowers to the Shiva. All the people were walking around the temple and using a stick to stir the fire. You always walk in a clockwise circel.

Although the people live in poverty in our standards, they seemed very happy and enjoying life. It again makes you aware that material things aren’t what make you happy.

I was supposed to go with Joyti to the movies but she had school work; she is getting her master’s degree. So it was a very quiet evening with a bottle of wine, a good book, and candlelight. It is my fifth book… would love to watch my TV programs.

Namaste

You finally get to see my Orange Kurta. Everyone tells me I really fit in and look normal, but I feel so orange. You can let me know what you think!

Walking with my fancy slippers (they call them shoes but look like slippers to me), I had to really watch to make sure I missed all the Spit on the street. I can’t believe how often (both men and women) I hear this terrible guttural noise and then they spit. And what comes up I will leave to your imagination… but you’re not far off. Between the dog xxx and the spit and the trash and the cars and the motorcycles, it is always a challenge walking the streets.

I have a great idea that I could employ many of the impoverished women to sweep the streets every day. They would have income and the streets would be clean. It would be better to have them sweep than carry the heavy loads. What do you think?

The views at Tewa are beautiful today. I am sorry I cannot be here in Oct-Dec when it is much clearer.

It is Friday night and I went to a Hookah bar. Hookah, also known as water pipe and hubby-bubbly, comes in many flavors. I smoked apple flavor. It was very interesting. I was with a bunch of 24 year olds that are friends of Razeena. It was really fun; not sure I will try it again. The bar has all low seats (you have to take your shoes off) and you sit around the table with this very large water pipe and smoke. It is very popular in Nepal.

Tomorrow is a day off, so I may do a little sightseeing, since it is my last Saturday in Kathmandu.

Namaste

Final Touches

It was a productive day. I did a competitive phone survey. It was amazing how all the hotels would give me all the information I was asking. In the states they would have been abrupt and hung up on me. I have a few more items to complete next week, before I leave for Pokhara.

I had three interns helping me today. They are so sweet. They were putting our database of NGOs together and also doing some of the calling for the competitive analysis. They come every Thursday and Friday and dedicate their time. Everyone is so committed to the cause; it is very inspiring. I went to the local store and bought the cookies to say thanks. I love shopping at these little alcoves called stores.

I am feeling a little homesick. It has been over a month, since I left home. As my daughter said, perhaps three months is too long. I think next year I will keep it to 2 months and then 1 month (divide it up versus 3 months in a row). I am already trying to determine my trip next year. So many possibilities!! Anyone have ideas??
I decided to wear my Kurta… the very orange one…. Tomorrow to work, so I can send a picture. Don’t forget to log in to see the pumkin.

Namaste

Year of Tourism 2011

I had to stay at another hotel last night because they did not have room for me at my normal hotel…very interesting. At 9pm they shut off all lights..I mean all lights. It was pitch dark and I was in a shared bathroom. Thank goodness I thought to bring my little flashlight. They also turn off all the water, except the toilet, until 9am the next morning. I had to leave for my bus at 8:45am. Interesting getting ready without water!! I definitely am glad to be back at my normal hotel.

I spent the day at Tewa on my marketing plan… every day I get a little more accomplished. There was a major storm and it was very cold… the weather forecast said sunny and warm and I had dressed appropriately. So much for weather forecasts in Nepal… as everyone told me today. I was really glad to get home and put on some clothes.

I went to a cultural event next to my hotel. It was a celebration of “The Year of tourism 2011”. I finally left after all the Nepali people kept on shoving in front of me and blocking my view… definitely a pushy crowd. They always smiled in a very friendly way, when they did it. It was very upsetting. So much for the “Year of Tourism”!!

An important side note. I finally asked someone about all the cows wandering in the streets. I learned that many were Oxen… they look like cows. There are a lot of babies too (they must be oxen or they would be taken in for their milk). Apparently when the cow stops giving milk, the owner just releases them to fend for themselves. They are all over … very sad.. I want to take the babies (cows or oxen who knows) home and feed them. They are eating trash.

Namaste

An Inspiring Day

I was sick last night…not sure what happened, so I did not get up until late; in fact, my hotel had to wake me for breakfast. As I mentioned, it is a national holiday so no work at Tewa. I attended a Federation of Women Entrepreneurs event, but it was totally in Nepali. It was all in Nepali but the women speaker seemed to be a real pioneer in the movement to help women all over the world.

Afterwards, I went to see a film on Liberia. It was so inspiring. It was about how the women of Liberia forced the government and the terrorist groups to come together to sign a peace treaty. Both the terrorists and the government were vandalizing, killing, and raping the citizens of Liberia. It is part of a series of films on human rights.

Most of the women at the event the night before attended this event. I was introducing people; just like I had been in Nepal for years. What a laugh.

It is really a strong group of women, many from the US. There was an elderly woman who was from the US State Department assigned to Nepal years ago. When she retired, she moved back to Nepal and is one of only three that has been given a retirement visa. She loves Nepal and the people of Nepal and has been very active in promoting women’s rights in Nepal. She believes with $5M she can buy back all the women sold into prostitution (eliminate trafficking) and has a movement to raise the money.

It has been an inspiring day and I am anxious to get back to work at Tewa tomorrow.

Namaste

Great Events for International Women's Day

I want to say immediately that I looked great in my Very Orange Kurta. I wish I would have had someone take a picture. Yesterday was Tewa’s donor event in Patan. There were over 50 people there and I would say that at least 25% were from the US. The event was held in honor of Louise Forest, a major donor out of Bozeman, Montana. A major donor is around $5K to $10K.

Most of the US people were living for a period of time in Nepal in some type of NGO or organization to help the Nepali people. One lady was a Fulbright Scholar in Theater and her husband was working with an organization on Human Rights. Another man is working with over 50,000 volunteer women training them on nursing the poor; interesting that most are from California and Montana. They were all very nice and I made a few friends. I believe that if I stayed in Nepal, I would be able to make friends faster than in California or Montana.

All the US people except Maggie, who has been in Nepal for over 30 years, wore regular pants and sweater. They thought I dressed in my Kurta every day. Little did they know that my jeans are wearing out from overuse.

I was invited to the Federation of Women Entrepreneurs’ International Women’s Day National Holiday event today and tonight I am going to a special film in honor of this national holiday. Interesting that Nepal treats International Women's Day as a national holiday... I bet you guys don't even know that it is International Women's Day... sure not a national holiday in US.

My calendar is getting very full and I really am trying to make sure I get all the marketing material done before I leave.

Namaste

Fighting the Water Balloons

I definitely did my 10000 steps today. To get to the monkey temple I had to walk about 3 miles from the bus stop and then go up many steps… I was too tired to count. I decided to catch a micro bus to get back to Thamel from the temple. That was my first mistake of the day. They kept on putting people in the van, even when there was no room and people were hanging out. I was fighting to keep a couple guys from ending up on my lap. I finally said “that’s it” and got out. Everyone laughed. I bet they were taking wagers to see how long I lasted. So I ended up walking back.

One of the reasons I did not want to walk back is because of the holiday, where the kids throw water balloons at you, especially tourists. I got it once on the way to the temple and the water was out of this filthy river… the river stunk. I was using my wipes to get the water off as best I could. I had to tell the kids a very strong NO, when they kept doing it. I was keeping my eyes out for all the kids with water balloons and going from one side of the street to the other.

I am on a NO taxi kick to save money. Not sure how long I will last. It is really easy to just get in a taxi, rather than fighting the crowds and get lost. All in all I think I walked about 8 miles today.

Tonight was the night to color my hair and I wanted to get home before dark (remember there is no electricity except a very little light in the room). I didn’t make it, so I was putting color on my hair with a flashlight and a little mirror from my powder. I am sharing a bathroom and there is no light in the bathroom, so I had to improvise. I wanted to color it so it would look nice for the dinner tomorrow night. I can’t wait to see what it looks like in the light.

I am really done with the sightseeing in Kathmandu, Nepal. I have two weeks to get the marketing plan done and all the other deliverables: a power point sales presentation, a template newsletter, and a database of prospective customers. There’s a lot to do.

Namaste

Beautiful Temples

I started out early today so I could see all the sights on my list. First I had to figure out the bus system. I was able to get to my first stop, Boudna, in record time.

Boudna is a very famous and unusual temple. It was really amazing to see a huge white dome stupa and tower painted with the eyes of budha and gompas (temples) surrounding it. There was a “service” (not sure that is what it is called) going on in one of the gompas. All the monks were chanting and they had two very long horns that would sound every five minutes. I happen to be inside when they went off and it was verrrry loud. It really is amazing to see.

I walked around the white dome and did some shopping. This stupa was built by Tibetan refugees, so the shops are filled with Tibetan goods . It was pretty exhausting and, thanks to lonely planet, was able to find a great coffee shop. Yes, even in Nepal there are coffee shops.

After seeing all the sights, I decided to walk to my next temple, Pashupatinath, which is the most sacred temple in Kathmandu. As I walked, I noticed a little friend, a boy in first grade, walking with me. It was really a great walk… made sure I had well over 10000 steps in for the day…. and the little boy stayed with me until we reached our destination. I bought him an ice cream cone.

Now, I know I do not do a great job of reading signs, but I really messed up this time. Apparently no one but Hindus are allowed to enter temple and definitely not cameras. I walked right in like I owned the place and was in the middle of taking a picture when a holy man and police officer started yelling at me. I was asked, no forced, to leave the temple quickly. Wow was that holy man mad… he wasn’t acting so holy. I guess I was lucky in that I got to see inside, where all the tourists were forced to stay outside.

I was allowed to enter the sacred river and watch the cremations (paid 500 rupees that only the tourists were charged). Apparently as soon as someone dies, they are immediately cremated in a ceremony at the river. The Brahmans (priest class) and monarchy are treated differently than the other classes, but all are cremated at the river. I watched a couple bodies being burned and one that the family was preparing to cremate. It was amazing. They believe that everyone dies (we believe this also) and that it is a very public ceremony, because the person will be reincarnated in another life. The river, although polluted, is considered very sacred. It actually joins a sacred river in India.

After I finished at the temple, I met Razeena and we shopped for over three hours trying to find an appropriate outfit for me to wear to dinner on Monday night. I am going to a special dinner with the donors and board members of Tewa. I found a Kurte and shoes and earrings… I probably will never wear it again, but I will really look Nepalese on Monday night. I am also going out on Tuesday and found a Kurta for that evening to wear with jeans. The difference between Kurte and Kurta is whether the outfit has matching pants.

After shopping until I was exhausted, we went to Razeena’s hotel and ate dinner. I was home by 9am and ready for a good night’s sleep… tomorrow is another sightseeing day.

Namaste

Trip to Nargarkot

It was a windy trip up and up to Nagarkot. Since I did not have a room in my hotel on the 3rd, I decided to take a trip for the night to Nagarkot. I stayed at the Farmhouse Resort. It was a lovely, quiet place. So quiet, I couldn’t sleep (where were the motorcycles and honking like my other hotel).

Nagarkot is known for its sunsets and sunrises, but timing is important. Unfortunately it was foggy and it was not as magnificent as in October/November time frame. But the place was very peaceful and I met some really nice people from Australia and UK. Since meals were included in this hotel because it was so remote, we had some lively discussions at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. At dinner I split a bottle of wine with a French couple that was also there. Wouldn’t you know they stiffed me for the bill (nothing against the French Cathy).

The next day I set out to walk back to Kathmandu through a village called Sankhu. The walk was wonderful. The hillsides were green and beautifully terraced. They were filming a Nepali movie. Apparently the guy we were watching is a very popular movie star. Now I live in California and never see movie stars and come to Nepal and see a movie star (or I think he was a movie star, since I haven’t the slightest whether he is. I have to take their word).

The Lonely Planet said this was a short walk… yea… they really got this wrong. It turns out that it would be a six hour or seven hour walk; so I walked around 2 ½ hours to Sankhu and took a bus from there. Again, I really hate buses, just like Italy. There are no signs in English and you just have to rely on a conversion, where you are not sure they understand you.

The bus was very crowded. There was a woman next to me that kept tossing her hair. Now I am really paranoid that I am going to get lice. I won’t put my head back on the seat and I tried to keep my head away from this woman. I think lice can jump from head to head….just kidding. Buses in Nepal are very bumpy and loud and the windows are open with the dust flying in. It was a long ride.

Finally the bus was empty but I was still riding in it…. I kept on asking if I should get off and he kept saying no. He was right because after about 1 ½ hours we pulled into a bus park that I am familiar with and I could jump a bus to Patan. Needless to say I took a nap when I was back safe and sound in my hotel.

Last night I had a BBQ with the National Democracy Foundation folks at a very beautiful Newari Hotel. It was a really beautiful large hotel and good to see how the other people live.
It was really nice to get to know all the NDF folks. There are four people from the Washington DC doing an audit of the programs, so it was nice to be with fellow Americans. I hope I will get to work with them in the future.

It was a very wonderful few days and glad I took the trip.

Namaste

The Holiday Spirit

Walking to work today was interesting. It is a holiday in Nepal. All the children are out with ropes stopping the traffic and walkers. You have to pay them money to pass thru. I didn’t quite get it at the first stop and passed without paying (not good). The second one I gave the kids some rupees. Apparently, everyone knows about this and makes sure they have small change to pay the kids. They are having so much fun. It is almost like Halloween, but these kids are smart and ask for money.

I almost feel like a local walking to work every day. The people are getting used to seeing me. As I was walking to work yesterday, I passed a bunch of tourist looking at all the sights. It made me laugh… I guess I looked like them the first time I walked down this road. It is definitely a colorful, local path to the bus.

This weekend is going to be interesting because many people paint their faces and throw powder and water balloons at other people, especially tourists, for the holiday. Apparently the water in the balloons is not “clean”. It probably comes from the polluted river. I will definitely be on guard.

It was difficult to work today. Between the cold, poor internet, and excitement about my trip tomorrow, I could not get anything done. The internet in Nepal is sporadic, just like the electricity. So Razeena and I took off early and she showed me all the cool places around Thamel. I bought five shawls for gifts (or myself…).

We stopped and had some coffee… real coffee. Not Nescafe! It tasted so good. I am starting to find some of the good coffee shops. Only bad thing is that none of them are close to my hotel.

It is really amazing to see that there are beautiful gardens and buildings behind plain walls. When you are walking or riding a bus you would never know they existed. Thanks to Razeena, I was able to see a little of the real beauty of Thamel, rather than a tourist shopping area. The more I see the real Nepal; I am really enjoying it and can understand why so many Americans love living here.

Namaste

A "Cold" Day

Well I did get the cold I was worried about. I went to the pharmacy… now Nepali pharmacies are like any other shop on the road, but it has drugs!!. I bought something (not sure what it is but it is working). I still went to work at Tewa, because I will be in Nagarkot on Thursday and Friday and will not be working. I am going to see the sunset and sunrise. It is suppose to be spectacular. Not sure if it can beat the sunsets from my home in CDM, but I will let you know.

Another woman, Louise Forrest, arrives next week from Bozeman, MT. Apparently she is a donor and wants to see Tewa. I am anxious to meet her, since Eric and I have a home in Bozeman also. I know she is planning on a trek, so perhaps she is joining the same one I am.

Work is slow, but I think I finally have the right info… really depends on who you talk to. I have completed the marketing plan and action plan. I now need to do my assigned tasks on the marketing plan. It probably will take most of the time in Nepal to complete. I don’t want to leave until I finish my project.

Namaste